Little help / question

[smessler34]

Can I remove the heater hoses from the radiator / manifold if I am doing away with the heat/ ac?

 

[bucket]

Hmm, I think so. Never done it myself because I always want heat, but yeah I think you just cap the radiator and plug the manifold.

 

[chengny]

Rather than just dead-ending the nipples, you might consider jumping out the heater core. IOW - create a short circuit.

Do this by connecting the intake manifold nipple directly over to the radiator outlet tank. It will require an adapter due to fact that the nipples are not the same size.

The outlet nozzle from the intake manifold (to which the heater core inlet hose is connected) is right next to the thermostat. It is also the high point in the cooling system and during cold starts - until the t-stat opens - it is the only path for coolant flow.

The thermostat charge cylinder (bulb) will not open the valve until it senses an increase in the coolant flowing underneath it. If the heater hose outlet is capped off, there is no flow past the t-stat charge cylinder. The result is; while the coolant in the rest of the engine block begins to heat up, the coolant surrounding the bulb does not. Since it does not get warm, it will not open the valve .

The charge cylinder will basically be in a dead end. Instead of seeing a gradual increase in the coolant temperature as it flows past it (and into the heater hose), the bulb senses an artificially low temperature and will not open as designed.


Installing a jumper hose from the intake manifold outlet to the radiator allows for a flow of coolant past the t-stat. The stat senses the heat in the coolant and the valve opens as designed.

 

[MadOgre]

So question? I know it might be pretty dumb, but what is the purpose of the port on the top back side of water pump? Is it the same purpose?

 

[chengny]

Yes, the return hose from the heater core can be connected at either point.

That NPT connection on the water pump housing feeds directly into the pump inlet. And, if you disregard the hose (radiator outlet to water pump inlet), the nipple on the radiator is also a straight shot into the eye of the impeller.


So, when looking at the cooling system in a piping schematic sense, the nipple on the radiator outlet tank and the port on the water pump casing are effectively in the same location.

Even in a thermodynamic sense, there is no significant difference. When the return is led to the radiator there is some minor heat loss - as compared to using the pump connection. That loss occurs as the coolant flows to the bottom of the tank, through the lower radiator hose and into the pump. But other than that, the heat balance is unchanged.

 

[MadOgre]

So you would hook the heater core to both the Intake manifold and the water pump disregarding the radiator ? If that's what you want to do for whatever reason. ?

If you ran from the water pump to the heater core and return to the radiator then you would not have that temperature cycling for the thermostat ?

Running from the intake manifold to the heater core and returning to radiator would produce the best results? no ?

Just trying to wrap my head around this LOL I know its pretty simple just wanna make sure it is how I think it is.

 

[MadOgre]

Oh I get it the water pump location is an INLET. missed that somehow OK got it.

 

[chengny]

Yeah, it makes no difference. I think early SBC engines always had the heater core return hose connected to the water pump.

Why they moved the return - away from the pump casing and over to the top of the radiator - is anybody's guess.

It may have been to save some room, due to the ever increasing amount of tubing/wiring/components that were being added to the top of the engine.

Or maybe to help keep the coolant system purged of any entrained air.

 

[bucket]

I think it was moved to the radiator for packaging, but air bleeding makes sense too.

So on the old cars with heater delete, there was no bypass, correct? Just pipe plugs in the intake and water pump?

 

[smessler34]

Rather than just dead-ending the nipples, you might consider jumping out the heater core. IOW - create a short circuit.

Do this by connecting the intake manifold nipple directly over to the radiator outlet tank. It will require an adapter due to fact that the nipples are not the same size.

The outlet nozzle from the intake manifold (to which the heater core inlet hose is connected) is right next to the thermostat. It is also the high point in the cooling system and during cold starts - until the t-stat opens - it is the only path for coolant flow.

The thermostat charge cylinder (bulb) will not open the valve until it senses an increase in the coolant flowing underneath it. If the heater hose outlet is capped off, there is no flow past the t-stat charge cylinder. The result is; while the coolant in the rest of the engine block begins to heat up, the coolant surrounding the bulb does not. Since it does not get warm, it will not open the valve .

The charge cylinder will basically be in a dead end. Instead of seeing a gradual increase in the coolant temperature as it flows past it (and into the heater hose), the bulb senses an artificially low temperature and will not open as designed.


Installing a jumper hose from the intake manifold outlet to the radiator allows for a flow of coolant past the t-stat. The stat senses the heat in the coolant and the valve opens as designed.

outstanding reply brother! thanks for the info! pics comming soon !