I think I need a new engine

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Dodg3m4n

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justin
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1978
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I’ll try to make this short and to the point to save some time. The stock logs split so I installed headers. In doing so I pulled off a few spark plug wires from the distributor. In a stroke of genius I thought it might be a good idea to replace them and in doing so forgot where they went or how they routed. Finally got that figured out using the compression method to find TDC on #1 and go to crank it over to start it and cranks maybe a full revolution and gives a very loud clunk sound and I can’t spin it by hand now either. Anybody got any ideas I can try before I replace the engine?
 

mtnmankev

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383 Stroker, 350
Are you able to crank the engine through (by hand or with the starter) if the spark plugs are removed ?
 

Dodg3m4n

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Are you able to crank the engine through (by hand or with the starter) if the spark plugs are removed ?
And this is why I came here because that thought didn’t even cross my mind. I will have to try that then it’s not raining here. But I do know it don’t do anything with spark plugs in. I forgot to say this earlier but it’s a stock LS9 350
 

mtnmankev

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Also, to help find #1 at the distributor (assuming it's installed correctly) rotate the engine (if possible) to line up the timing marks on the block and harmonic balancer.
The rotor will point to either #1 or #6.
Usually, #1 at the rotor will point to the left rear of the carburetor (driver's side).
 

mtnmankev

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383 Stroker, 350
This forum is GREAT, and don't ever be afraid to ask any questions about things you are working on and/or unsure of.
I see you're a newcomer, so welcome to the site, and you will find there is a goldmine of knowledge and experience among the group.
We even have a few screwballs to provide entertainment at times.
 

Dodg3m4n

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I may have done it dumb then because I got to TDC by feeling the compression and pooped the cap off to see where it was pointing and put number one where it was about to spin to
 

Octane

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Rotate till on compression stroke at tdc.Timing marks aligned on balancer.Rotor pointing to #1 cylinder.If this is the way it's set up then it is in time.
 

mtnmankev

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You are aware then, that if the distributor is removed and being installed, you have to start a little bit before where you want it to end up, and it has to point to where #1 is supposed to be when the distributor is fully seated.
Sometimes, it can be a pain to get it to line up with the oil pump drive and then seat fully, some guys rotate the engine by bumping the key or turning by hand with the distributor started, but the method I use (much safer) is to use a long flat blade screwdriver, shine a flashlight down through the distributor hole, and rotate the oil pump drive a hair at a time so the drive will mesh as the dizzy comes down.
Patience can be your best friend when doing this chore.
 

Dodg3m4n

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I haven’t pulled the distributor out though is what’s puzzling me. I’ve only removed the cap and I have it marked so it goes back to the exact same spot. It was running mostly fine before the log split and header install. I don’t know exactly what headers I got but all passenger side plugs I can only get to with a wrench so I wonder if I pulled a wire apart or something towards the bottom of the engine. This is my first vehicle this old that actually ran so I’m new to lack of electronics
 

mtnmankev

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383 Stroker, 350
If you don't know the firing order, it's 1-8-4-3-6-5-7-2 rotating clockwise.
1,3,5,7 on the driver side bank, 2,4,6,8 passenger side.
You will get used to the simplicity of how things were done, and most things are easier (and cheaper) to work on than the vehicles with computers and electronics.
I would not trade my 40 year old trucks for anything new.
I also recommend you invest in a good factory shop manual, or if you prefer, download one to your computer so you have reference info.
I believe they are posted in a thread on the forum, so do a search and you may find one.
 

Octane

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I’ll try to make this short and to the point to save some time. The stock logs split so I installed headers. In doing so I pulled off a few spark plug wires from the distributor. In a stroke of genius I thought it might be a good idea to replace them and in doing so forgot where they went or how they routed. Finally got that figured out using the compression method to find TDC on #1 and go to crank it over to start it and cranks maybe a full revolution and gives a very loud clunk sound and I can’t spin it by hand now either. Anybody got any ideas I can try before I replace the engine?
You have problems other than wires and manifolds.You got oil in the engine? Sounds like you're saying it turns partial revolution and locks.
 

mtnmankev

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Engine Size
383 Stroker, 350
I was going to suggest he remove the plugs, verify the engine rotates freely, then install the plugs one at a time and verify it still turns, then if all is good and it still has an issue, we can work on that.
 

Dodg3m4n

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Engine Size
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Octane- that was the first thing I checked because it leaks oil from any and everywhere it can.

Mtnman- I will definitely try that first thing tomorrow morning and see what happens.

And now that I think about it it’s been hard to start after a drive of any amount. Wether to Taco Bell on the corner or an hour down the road but it could idle forever and fire back up no problem which makes me wonder if I have some internal issues that I really don’t want to know about. But I will definitely pull plugs out and see how it spins in the morning
 

mtnmankev

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Truck Model
K10, C20
Engine Size
383 Stroker, 350
Octane- that was the first thing I checked because it leaks oil from any and everywhere it can.

Mtnman- I will definitely try that first thing tomorrow morning and see what happens.

And now that I think about it it’s been hard to start after a drive of any amount. Wether to Taco Bell on the corner or an hour down the road but it could idle forever and fire back up no problem which makes me wonder if I have some internal issues that I really don’t want to know about. But I will definitely pull plugs out and see how it spins in the morning
Justin - Do you have a vacuum gauge or can borrow/buy one ?
That is one of the most important diagnostic tools you can have for engine diagnosis, along with eyes and ears.
 

Dodg3m4n

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Location
oklahoma
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justin
Truck Year
1978
Truck Model
C20
Engine Size
350
I had one until someone decided they wanted my stuff more than I did. Never used it though. How would the vacuum gauge be handy on my old work truck?
 

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