Harmonic balancer removal issues

[84K30]

Decided to replace my separating balancer today since I finally have the time to do so. Bought an OEM tools brand puller to help me complete the job. The puller came with 3 bolts I needed, a "ducks foot" and the pressure pin which is tightened to pull the balancer. After several rotations of the center pin, the engine started to turn. I then came up with the bright idea of using my impact gun. Not only did this not help me remove the balancer, I now have a puller bolt broken off in my pulley. What can I do to get this balancer off after I drilling out the broken bolt, retapping the balancer and purchasing new, grade 8 puller bolts? Thanks

-Eric

 

[Bextreme04]

lol.... don't buy an OEM brand anything. You can rent them for free from any of the automotive parts stores. All three bolts need to be in and the puller needs to be even, it sounds like you had them uneven and it pulled too hard on the one bolt. spray the crank snout liberally with penetrating oil and let sit for a while, repeat several times. If it is still being stubborn, heat the balancer a bit. It doesn't need to be red hot, just a little heat on the balancer only and not the crank will expand it and let it come off easier. Using the impact is also your best bet, if the puller is on evenly it shouldn't break or strip the bolts. Make sure the center pin is greased liberally. Another trick is to get the puller tensioned and tap the balancer with a hammer. The shock from the hammer, combined with the tension will often break it loose. Dont go wailing on it though or you could damage the bearings or crank snout.

 

[Bextreme04]

You will also need to rent a harmonic balancer installer so you don't damage anything when you install the new damper. You can't pull it on with the regular bolt without risking stripping the crank and you dont want to try and pound it on with a hammer for the reasons stated above

 

[84K30]

Thanks for the reply. I had all 3 bolts completely threaded into the balancer which I imagine would have made them even? By crank snout I imagine you mean the exterior/perimeter and not the threads where the retaining bolt goes? I will keep the heat trick in mind in the event your other suggestions do not work.

 

[Vbb199]

LS people be like :

"bAlAnCeR's StUcK, tImE tO sWaP a 5.tree iN "


Anyway...

Apply some heat to that bad boy and get it to swell up, might have alot more luck getting it off

 

[RedBeard_83]

LS people be like :

"bAlAnCeR's StUcK, tImE tO sWaP a 5.tree iN "


Anyway...

Apply some heat to that bad boy and get it to swell up, might have alot more luck getting it off

[emoji1787]

Sent from my XT1650 using Tapatalk

 

[mtnmankev]

Also, don't forget to oil the threads of the puller.
And I always use short bursts with my impact.

 

[84K30]

As much as everyone seems to like the LS platform, a 5.3 would definitely be a downgrade from my 454. I'll try the heat and oil the threads of the puller once I get my broken bolt out.

 

[Vbb199]

As much as everyone seems to like the LS platform, a 5.3 would definitely be a downgrade from my 454. I'll try the heat and oil the threads of the puller once I get my broken bolt out.

Oh no.... I wasn't recommending that... PLEASE don't downgrade lol

 

[84K30]

Probably not going to get a chance to monkey with my truck until next Friday. I am contemplating removing the AC condenser and grill so I can work straight in front of me vs from the top or from underneath...If this motor comes out for any reason, its either getting stroked to 496 or a crate 502 is going back in its place. I certainly wouldn't mind an LS in a RCSB C10 though!

 

[AuroraGirl]

Oh no.... I wasn't recommending that... PLEASE don't downgrade lol

WE MUST KEEP THE HERITAGE ALIVE

I have headers for a big block, thats inspiration enough to eventually get one.

 

[84K30]

Definitely get a big block. My smog era 454 giddy ups pretty good, I can only imagine what a worked one would be like.

Here is a picture of the sheared bolt.

I was thinking, if I put the trans in gear, it would be far less likely that it’ll turn while I’m “tightening” the puller, right? That’s one of the issues I had, the engine started turning overs while I was rotating the pressure pin to pull the balancer off.

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[ali_c20]

Putting it in gear and applying the parking brake should help. Heating the bugger up will make the job way easier. Easiest would be to borrow one of these style pullers:

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[84K30]

Update:

I managed to remove the broken bolt by using a easy out. This is the first time I have ever been successful with one! Also, after switching out the bolts supplied in the kit for grade 8 bolts and soaking the crank snout several times a day since this process began I managed to remove the balancer.

Prior to installing the new balancer, chevy performance parts 10216339, I lubed up the crank snout and inside of the balancer. I also marked "0" and each 10 degree increment that is engraved into the balancer.

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I was able to get the balancer started on the end of the crank without any issues. After a few turns of the jack nut, the jack screw (along bolt that is threaded into the crank snout) began to turn with the jack nut. Fearing that the crank snout was stripping, I stopped for the day. The threads are still okay at this point and the balancer is on maybe 1/3".

What, in addition to heating the balancer, what can I do to make this process easier? I really don't want to mess up the threads in the crank snout!

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[mtnmankev]

I made this myself many years ago for a LOT less than the set sold in tool trucks or stores.
And it's so simple, it actually works.
I got a piece of grade 8 all thread, cut at 6 and a half inches long.
Double nut tightened against each other on one end to stay put.
Another nut free to thread on and off, and a couple flat washers.
I thread it all the way into the crank (after oiling the threads of course) and use two wrenches, one to hold the nut at the end and the other to spin the nut pressing the balancer on.
I have had a few resist going on, but strong arm the wrenches and it WILL go on.

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