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Well you should do something. The current fuel pump setup is poor. You'll need to decide what you prefer to do but basically the options will be going to a mechanical pump, or purchasing a high quality electric pump and mounting it back by the fuel tank, if you have two tanks then your pretty much stuck installing it after the tank valve, which means it's still got to suck fuel much further than it should, or replacing the tank valve with one that is designed to have pressure in it.
I am slow at typing, so I glad you typed what I was also thinking. Lots of poor connections that need to be corrected. I would be willing to bet based on his first post, if he worked on the carb and lost all power to crank and start, the odds are he bumped a lose wire and lost one of the marginal connections. I would use a test light that has a clip on the ground side, clip it to ground, stick the probe end in the red wire on the Dist, turn on the key, to run position. Then gently move some of the not so pretty connections and watch the test light, see if you can find a wire that will make the test light come on. If you can find the lose connection with that trick then you can get spark back and move forward with cleaning up the rest of the connections.
Haha, I was wondering what that extra oil filter looking thing was for. I guess that's probably the pump. Once I got the thing running sounds like I should jump on that pump next
I tested the wires going to the dist. The yellow one goes to through the firewall (I think I was wrong and that it is the yellow one that goes to the ignition but not sure. I follow the red wire and it goes into a a rather large wrap and all the wires come out connencting to what I have a picture of below. all the wires down there seem to have a pretty good connection but do to how many wires there are I didn't follow perfectly which one was the red that goes to the dist.
Someone powered that little fuel pump with a scotch lock wire on the electric choke lead on my truck! Horrible idea, but fwiw it worked all summer (other than frying a couple pumps).
Sorry I'm not helping with your primary issue, but once you get it sorted, just put a new mechanical pump on it. Unless the cam lobe is wore out, it's a 1000% better solution for a carbureted engine.
Just to clarify, the truck has a snow plow on it? Also the sentence "as well as the mess of wires to the back engine" Back engine or back OF engine? You might be outside my experience if you have dual engines.
This is what I use, I prefer the naked butt splices and shrink wrap to keep everything clean. The connectors with the colored plastic insulators look crappy and don't crimp as well. One more tip, when you are replacing wires or connectors it is less confusing if you correct one wire at a time instead of pulling everything apart all at once. Start where ever you feel comfortable. If it's in your budget, a colored wiring diagram as reference will save you time and aggravation too. If you have the option of diesel diagram and regular, get both. That way one diagram shows what you have and the other shows where you want to end up. It will help you know what to remove and what needs to be changed.
Salt spreader engine?
There is a mechanical fuel pump in these first pictures. What is it connected to and where are the fuel lines routed?? Is the electric pump PULLING from the tank or a gas can somewhere?
