Drag link adjuster. Proper way to tighten?

[MisterB]

I replaced both ends of my drag link with a brand new one, as well as the adjuster sleeve. Got everything installed, but I can't seem to get the adjuster sleeve to tighten enough to hold everything in place when I turn the wheels. I've really cranked on it, and I'm a big dude. The ears touch, but it still isn't tight enough, and I'm concerned I'm going to break a bolt or something if I keep tightening.

What am I doing wrong? Does the gap in the adjuster sleeve need to line up with the gap in the clamp ears? Any other ideas?

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[bucket]

Yes, the gaps need to line up for full clamping force.

 

[MisterB]

Yes, the gaps need to line up for full clamping force.

I tried that just now, and it didn't make any difference. I did notice that this adjuster sleeve has these little knobs on the outer edge on both ends. I figured it was to keep the knobs from slipping off. Should I have the clamp over that, so there is more of a gap between the ears for it to tighten down? I've got it centered in the flat area, so it looks like the old one I removed

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[Craig 85]

Here's how my K30 looks. I had to cut about 3/8" off the end off the threaded end one of my links as I couldn't get it to adjust enough to center the steering wheel with the steering box centered.

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[bucket]

Is it perhaps the wrong sleeve? Mine look like this and they never come loose:

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[Turbo4whl]

AJ, If the ears of the clamps are touching when tightened, this could be the problem. Maybe you need to grind or cut some metal off the clamp ears.

Sometimes the aftermarket parts are not made as well as the originals. I do understand how hard it is to get quality parts for older vehicles. Are they a name brand? Have to ask, country of origin?

 

[MisterB]

Here's how my K30 looks. I had to cut about 3/8" off the end off the threaded end one of my links as I couldn't get it to adjust enough to center the steering wheel with the steering box centered.

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You have more space between the ears. I've tightened mine to where they touch, and it's still not enough to tighten it down

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[MisterB]

Is it perhaps the wrong sleeve? Mine look like this and they never come loose:

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It's possible, although I ordered everything from LMC. Incidentally, yours don't look lined up with the center gap in the threaded sleeve? In fact one is in a different spot than the other.

Maybe I just need to use my old adjuster sleeve?

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[MisterB]

AJ, If the ears of the clamps are touching when tightened, this could be the problem. Maybe you need to grind or cut some metal off the clamp ears.

Sometimes the aftermarket parts are not made as well as the originals. I do understand how hard it is to get quality parts for older vehicles. Are they a name brand? Have to ask, country of origin?

I got them from LMC. I'll have to look at the box for the name brand and country. I may just use my stock adjuster sleeve

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[bucket]

It's possible, although I ordered everything from LMC. Incidentally, yours don't look lined up with the center gap in the threaded sleeve? In fact one is in a different spot than the other.

Maybe I just need to use my old adjuster sleeve?

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Right, mine are lined up poorly and it holds. That was my own doing about 10 years ago, lol. I would think if they were lined up opposite of the sleeve, it could certainly cause a clamping issue.

 

[MisterB]

I got them from LMC. I'll have to look at the box for the name brand and country. I may just use my stock adjuster sleeve

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The stock one is a no go. It's way too rusted on and nasty. I could only get one side to unscrew. The other one is cemented on. I'd have to mangle it to even attempt to get it off.

I went back and tried the clamps in all different positions. Nothing works. These are made in lovely China, by "OE Brand, by FPD", and sold by LMC. I'm guessing it's a poorly made part, and I'll need to find a replacement from NAPA or the like. What a crock of ****. This stuff takes enough time and effort as it is, without having to monkey with bad parts.

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[PrairieDrifter]

I've always reused the stock adjuster sleeves. The proper way to adjust them is count the turns coming apart and match going back together.

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[MisterB]

OK, I got this all buttoned up. I ended up buying a new adjuster sleeve from NAPA, and it worked perfectly. Amazing how much easier **** is when the parts aren't defective and/or cheap. I think LMC is fine for most parts other than mechanical stuff that can be purchased at NAPA and elsewhere. The nice thing too was that they had it in stock and I could just do an online order and pick it up and pay at the store.

I'm also happy to report that swapping out the drag link for a new one fixed the play and slop in my steering wheel! Between that and the new U Joint steering shaft I recently put in, this truck is handling like it should. My steering wheel is finally straight too, since I was able to just twist the adjuster a bit to get it in position.

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[80BrownK10]

I've always reused the stock adjuster sleeves. The proper way to adjust them is count the turns coming apart and match going back together.

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Man if mine looked that clean. Mine looks more like Buckets though

 

[PrairieDrifter]

Man if mine looked that clean. Mine looks more like Buckets though

My suburban is pretty rust free, frame wise, but either way I've always reused the stock sleeves. If they're rusty and ugly either sandblasting or wire wheel, or even some evaporust will clean it right up.