Direct Horn Test

Disclaimer: Links on this page pointing to Amazon, eBay and other sites may include affiliate code. If you click them and make a purchase, we may earn a small commission.

1987 GMC Jimmy

Automobile Hoarder
Joined
Jan 23, 2016
Posts
5,848
Reaction score
2,389
Location
Mississippi
First Name
Jesse
Truck Year
1987
Truck Model
V1500 Jimmy
Engine Size
350
Some jackass completely screwed up the horn componentry in the steering column of my truck. The horns, the wiring and the relay are all okay, though, and I'd like to test the horns directly. I haven't delved into this project yet because it's like number four on the list, but I'm preparing myself. Anyways, could I use a batter to make a circuit and do a sound test, or should I get an ohmmeter and do a comtinuity test? I like the idea of the sound test, though, because I don't want to verify continuity but later hear a worn out sound coming from a horn.
 

oneluckypops

Full Access Member
Joined
Feb 6, 2011
Posts
2,210
Reaction score
91
Location
Sedalia, Mo.
First Name
Luke
Truck Year
85
Truck Model
K30 SRW
Engine Size
5.7 Fuel injected Vortec/ 4L80E
Ground the horn, then hook a jumper from the battery to the terminal, If you about **** yourself its good.
 

1987 GMC Jimmy

Automobile Hoarder
Joined
Jan 23, 2016
Posts
5,848
Reaction score
2,389
Location
Mississippi
First Name
Jesse
Truck Year
1987
Truck Model
V1500 Jimmy
Engine Size
350
It's just a single wire going into the horn?
 

oneluckypops

Full Access Member
Joined
Feb 6, 2011
Posts
2,210
Reaction score
91
Location
Sedalia, Mo.
First Name
Luke
Truck Year
85
Truck Model
K30 SRW
Engine Size
5.7 Fuel injected Vortec/ 4L80E
It's just a single wire going into the horn?

yup that is correct, the single wire comes from the horn switch and is a +12v wire, the horn is a self grounding unit, Meaning the mounting bracket bolts to the core support. Which supplies the ground to complete the circuit
Just touch the bracket to a negative post and a fused jumper wire to the +battery post
 

1987 GMC Jimmy

Automobile Hoarder
Joined
Jan 23, 2016
Posts
5,848
Reaction score
2,389
Location
Mississippi
First Name
Jesse
Truck Year
1987
Truck Model
V1500 Jimmy
Engine Size
350
Tried the horn test finally. I used a test light, and the light lit up, and the horns made a tiny little squeak. What do I do on this front? Pull a set off a junker, or do they make good repros that sound the same?
 

foamypirate

Full Access Member
Joined
Jul 30, 2010
Posts
3,302
Reaction score
456
Location
Central TX
First Name
Jake (Mr. Wilson)
Truck Year
1980
Truck Model
El Camino, baby!
Engine Size
5.3L/4L60E
Tried the horn test finally. I used a test light, and the light lit up, and the horns made a tiny little squeak. What do I do on this front? Pull a set off a junker, or do they make good repros that sound the same?

The test light is probably acting as a resistor, I would try a plain wire lead. They may work just fine.
 

Georgeb

Full Access Member
Joined
Apr 30, 2015
Posts
3,259
Reaction score
214
Location
Wisconsin
First Name
George
Truck Year
2003
Truck Model
K10 Burb Z71
Engine Size
5.3
Like this.
 

Attachments

  • HORN.jpg
    HORN.jpg
    41.2 KB · Views: 114

1987 GMC Jimmy

Automobile Hoarder
Joined
Jan 23, 2016
Posts
5,848
Reaction score
2,389
Location
Mississippi
First Name
Jesse
Truck Year
1987
Truck Model
V1500 Jimmy
Engine Size
350
Did the horn test, and they worked great. I traced the purple and green wire all the way into the firewall. I didn't go any further, but I know that there's a horn relay plugged into the "convenience center," and the horn stuff on the steering wheel is all messed up. I know the contact kit is missing and some of the stuff that holds the cup onto the wheel, unless I installed it wrong because the button's just floating. Do I need to trace the wiring to the relay and make sure everything's continuous, or where would y'all go from here?
 

Forum statistics

Threads
44,173
Posts
950,862
Members
36,288
Latest member
brentjo
Top