Daisy chaining grounds?

[Dleslie212]

I'm currently rewiring my 77 K10 completely, and have started to make sure all the grounds are good.

I've installed a few ground lugs at a few places. One at the driver side fender, one on passenger side frame and another at the frame towards the rear. I'll be installing another shortly behind the instrument cluster.

My battery, alternator and block all ground together at the passenger side frame lug. My question is, is there a reason I shouldn't daisy chain all the grounds together, with a few 6 gauge wires chained from lug to lug?

 

[Randy and Easton]

@RustyPile will be along hopefully soon and give you your answer. He helped us a bunch with our issues and its been working great ever since!

Randy and E

 

[Camar068]

I'd go batt-frame-engine/rad support. then from drivers side block-frame-rad support again. I'd do both sides block-cab.

 

[RustyPile]

I'm currently rewiring my 77 K10 completely, and have started to make sure all the grounds are good.

I've installed a few ground lugs at a few places. One at the driver side fender, one on passenger side frame and another at the frame towards the rear. I'll be installing another shortly behind the instrument cluster.

My battery, alternator and block all ground together at the passenger side frame lug. My question is, is there a reason I shouldn't daisy chain all the grounds together, with a few 6 gauge wires chained from lug to lug?

Thank you, Randy for the compliment.

There is absolutely no need to "daisy chain" the ground points together.. The steel body panels do that just fine.. Use the pig tail on the battery ground cable for grounding the core support. Ground the large battery cable directly to the engine. Do not use one of the exhaust manifold bolts, as rust will soon cause a bad connection. The alternator bracket or one of the bolts at the bottom of the engine block near the fuel pump is a good place. Install a ground strap to the frame at this point also. The factory installed a ground strap between the rear of the passenger side head and the firewall. This is highly suggested. Two ground straps, one on each side of the bottom of the cab to the frame and the same thing at the rear for the bed. There is a ground wire on the instrument panel plug that needs to be attached to the upper kick paned or dash panel. Clean of any paint or rust down to bare shiny metal at the attachment point. A very small dab of grease will prevent rust from forming.

There is really no need to run a ground directly to the alternator housing. This is a carryover from the days of when generators were mounted in rubber and needed a ground path between it and the external voltage regulator.

I use 8MM braided copper for these straps. Always crimp and solder the terminals, never depend on crimp only on any wire connections. No insulation needed on ground straps. The braided copper is available in the electrical department at Lowes and most automotive parts suppliers.

Here's a link to what I use. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0CB44FTB6/