Coolant Temp sender on driver side head - new connector / rig replacement?

[AuroraGirl]

I have broken my connector, it got brtittle, and it wont stay on the sensor. Its not imperative but id like to fix it today. Could any universal connecting clip work, a work around, or could I put a sensor from a later SBC(blade style connection) or maybe an earlier style from a 60s sbc (not sure if it was different then) or am i gonna have different sensor values?

I wouldnt mind replacing the wire, anyway, because part of it got damaged when it got sandwiched in the valve cover.

Does it wire into main harness or does it connect somewhere? Id be replacing it near the oil sending unit if i have to wire it in.

 

[1987 GMC Jimmy]

Your sender has the ball on the end? Even still, it wouldn’t surprise me if there was a pigtail in stock locally right now.

 

[Grit dog]

Just rig a wire onto the sensor. Warm up engine. If it works, then whatever you put on it securely will work.

 

[Vbb199]

You may find the 90, 91 plug style temp sender pigtails and sensor may be easier to find.

It's a D shaped plug with 1 wire.

 

[AuroraGirl]

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This is what I have on truck

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This is on spare engine. If sensors had same resistance I think the last one I showed would be better because I could use a Tang ?

 

[AuroraGirl]

And it's not that I need sensor today I just am not working but don't want to make an hour trip for a pigtaill. I'd online it if I can't use the other or make something that would permanently suffice

 

[Vbb199]

And it's not that I need sensor today I just am not working but don't want to make an hour trip for a pigtaill. I'd online it if I can't use the other or make something that would permanently suffice

Like @Grit dog said.
You can skin the wire sheath back and just wrap it around the senders prong, it'll read the same.
It's a fairly dumb device.

 

[C10MixMaster]

I have broken my connector, it got brtittle, and it wont stay on the sensor. Its not imperative but id like to fix it today. Could any universal connecting clip work, a work around, or could I put a sensor from a later SBC(blade style connection) or maybe an earlier style from a 60s sbc (not sure if it was different then) or am i gonna have different sensor values?

I wouldnt mind replacing the wire, anyway, because part of it got damaged when it got sandwiched in the valve cover.

Does it wire into main harness or does it connect somewhere? Id be replacing it near the oil sending unit if i have to wire it in.

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a common crimp connector attached sideways should work

 

[AuroraGirl]

IS that a fork-y one or the one thats like a rail? But either way, cool, I can go play with some to find out if i have the right size. Honestly, if it works and stays, I wont need a new pigtail.

 

[Turbo4whl]

Like @C10MixMaster stated. Use a spade lug connector. Pry the 2 tabs open with a small screwdriver until it fits on. Some spade lug connectors are made so they will fit both the button head and the standard spade lug.

 

[C10MixMaster]

IS that a fork-y one or the one thats like a rail? But either way, cool, I can go play with some to find out if i have the right size. Honestly, if it works and stays, I wont need a new pigtail.

the one in the pic is an original packard 56 connector, that's what all the original connectors are on the early squares. a generic autozone connector is close enough to fit with a little persuasion .

 

[AuroraGirl]

Like @C10MixMaster stated. Use a spade lug connector. Pry the 2 tabs open with a small screwdriver until if fits on. Some spade lug connectors are made so they will fit both the button head and the standard spade lug.

Ahh, yes, the rail one! I forgot the word spade.

im bad with cards
and garden tools.
and talking concisely.

and one might say I dont call a spade a spade.

 

[Turbo4whl]

The spade connector on the left will fit on.

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The connector on the right needs to be pried opened, then it will work too.

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[Turbo4whl]

The spade connector on the left will fit on.

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The connector on the right needs to be pried opened, then it will work too.

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NOTICE

I should have reversed the picture so it would be politically correct.

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The connector on the RIGHT will work, no problem.

The connector on the LEFT, will need to be pried into working. Even then it may not work well.

 

[AuroraGirl]

NOTICE

I should have reversed the picture so it would be politically correct.

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The connector on the RIGHT will work, no problem.

The connector on the LEFT, will need to be pried into working. Even then it may not work well.

TRYING TO SAY SOMETHING ABOUT BOTTOMS, ARE WE?

ILL SHOW YOU WHAT ITS LIKE TO BE A BOTTOM.