Comp Cams simulator says 12-304-4 is the equivalent for computer control. Similar lift, similar duration and separation numbers, similar rpm range, and similar performance. 275hp @ 4000, 410lbft @ 2500. Stock torque converter for rpm range 700-4700 rpm. Probably want to pop the governor off the side of the transmission and replace one weight with the next bigger size to drop the WOT shift point 500 rpm, which takes about 15 minutes.
It's got the torque you want for towing and for getting a truck moving out of the hole.
With 4.10 gears and stock-diameter tires, you'll want to be careful how fast you get into the throttle from a stop, or else negotiate quantity discounts on rear tires.
Note that this will not idle like a piece of crap (the so-called "lopey" idle). That indicates an engine that does not want to run at low rpm, but is tuned instead for high horsepower. Which means it will not be suitable for towing, and you will need a high-rpm torque converter just to make it driveable. Without that it will be a brick off the line. With the 12-304-4, you have 300+ lbft of torque already at 1000 rpm. So it will idle very sweet and steady, because it is ready to rock and roll and will pull like a tractor right off idle.
Read up on changing and breaking in a cam. You MUST (M, U, S, T) put new lifters in when putting in a new cam. They bed into each other within the first few minutes. Put a new cam on old lifters, and you will flatten lobes on the cam within a few hundred miles. You should also put in new valve springs, to replace the 30-year-old springs that are in there. Might as well put in new oil seals too. This can be a real PITA, but is made much simpler if you buy the valve spring compresser tool. While you have the cam out, replace the timing set (the gears on the front that connect the crankshaft to the camshaft).
The easiest way to change the cam with the engine in the truck is to pull the grill, the radiator, and the hood latch. Then the cam will come straight out the front of the truck. This will also make it much easier to replace the timing set.
You must reassemble the cam/lifters/timing set with assembly lube. You must use break-in additive in new, non-synthetic oil for the break-in. You should fill the new oil filter with oil when you put it on so there is no delay in oil getting to the engine the first time you fire it up. You need to run the engine in a specific break-in sequence, then change the oil. Change it again at 500 miles, and at 3000. You need high-zinc oil, or add 1/2 bottle of ZDDPPlus to the oil to make up for the lack of this additive in modern oils. At 3000 miles you can change to full synthetic oil, such as Mobil 1 10W30, but you still need to add 1/2 bottle ZDDPPlus every oil change for this engine.
The break-in sequence will probably come in the cam instructions. If a garage does the install, they will know how to do it. You can also use the break-in instructions from the Chevy crate engine instructions. These begin on page 3 of this booklet.
https://www.chevrolet.com/content/d...0-290-hp-long-block-crate-engine-12499529.pdf
