Brakes come and go?

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Sachmo

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Yesterday a car pulled out in front of me and i had to get on the brakes pretty hard. Not even close to locking up the tires though. Since then the brakes have felt really weird. Twice it has gone to the floor, but the pedal came back when i pumped it. The pedal will slowly go down if I'm at a stop light. I checked the lines for a break or leak but found none and the fluid is at a normal level. The old girl is parked until i can figure this one out. Truck is an 83 k20
 

crazy4offroad

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Check the rear wheel cylinders, they have a tendency to blow out in emergency braking situations.
 

Swims350

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sounds like signs of a bad MC to me, having to pump them up and slowly going down at a stop.
 

89Suburban

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sounds like signs of a bad MC to me, having to pump them up and slowly going down at a stop.

Yes, I agree. Of course first thing to do is look behind each wheel and check for wetness indicating a leak.
 

Sachmo

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After taking a closer look with a friend, the rear reservoir is going down slowly when the brakes are pumped. The fluid is leaking from between the master cylinder and booster. What is wrong here? I called autozone to get a quote on a master cylinder and they asked whether i had jb6 or jb7. what is the difference between the two?
 

Swims350

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when you get fluid behind them it's a bad MC no doubt about it.

the difference is the size brakes, fronts had 1 inch rotors and 1.25 or 1-1/4

rears had 11's and other sizes. They should ask what size rear shoes you have that tells the code.
 

Sachmo

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Thank you Swims. What part of the mc fails causing it to leak? just out of curiosity.
 

Swims350

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well in order for it to come out the back it's the last o-ring or whatever you want to call it.

The only thing in them is cup seals or o-rings and then springs, they call the alum. pieces the cup seals go on pistons, and the springs ride on the end of them. Very simple and easy enough rebuild but for the price you can buy one already rebuilt and just swap them.

I got my info from Curt, (crazy4offroad) he had told me and probably others that if it leaked between there, sure sign it's bad. I recently bought one for my 88, autozone wanted $26 or so for the rebuild kit, just 2 pistons, 2 springs and some seals if that, OR the same price maybe $1 or 2 more for an entire rebuilt MC, the body tank and all, bolt on and go, after bleeding. No question, I went with the entire unit.

LMC has a brake down on the brake options, go over to their site and check it out, pull a drum and measure your rear shoes, that tells you the option, if not and you can read your RPO sheet,(highly doubtful) get it from the sheet. That sheet is usually on the inner fender underhood or in the glovebox, maybe both? Our 86 with a/c had it in glove box, our 84 was on the inner fender.

Another tip, buy some GOOD penetrating oil, kroil deep kreep, pb blaster something and soak them bleeders for a few days, before bleeding the system, also may just want to invest in 4 new bleeder screws to avoid trying to clean out the old ones.
 

89Suburban

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Chevyguy

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After taking a closer look with a friend, the rear reservoir is going down slowly when the brakes are pumped. The fluid is leaking from between the master cylinder and booster. What is wrong here? I called autozone to get a quote on a master cylinder and they asked whether i had jb6 or jb7. what is the difference between the two?


Open your glove box and look at your build code sheet thats glued to the inside, if you still have it. The codes there. It has to do with brake size.

Clayton
 

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