Brakes a Mess

[1987 GMC Jimmy]

The good news is that it’s just one: the rear DS brake. The bad news is I hate drum brakes. I knew because it was pulling to the right when braking even though the front have already been done, and are in perfect shape. I pulled this drum and found...

• One wheel cylinder link missing and the other not engaging the shoe at all - I ordered a set from NAPA today that looked right, and I’ll see if they match.
• A retainer spring and cup had come off the rear shoe so that whole shoe was just dangling there.
• The brake bar lever and all the parking brake linkage was also dangling.
• Finally, and this one is my fault, when I first got the truck and was fairly in over my head, I knocked the drum weights off trying to free the drum.

Overall, it’s strange to me how this happened. It’s my first time pulling the rears apart (it’s always been something else but now that it’s running right for the first time in a year and a half I can move closer to getting it how I want it). I don’t know what else to do except replace what’s damaged or missing and button it back up.

The only thing I would like to compromise on is the drum. If someone has some weights, they can be tackwelded on, there are marks on the face of the drum where they go, and it’ll be good to go. If not, I’d take a good drum that anyone had lying around as long as it had enough metal to warrant staving off getting a new one. I haven’t gotten the thickness on mine yet. Anyone have weights or an extra 11” six lug drum? Also, anyone have a clue why things popped off and led to this chain reaction of **** being broken? Could have been the improper drum balancing vibrated things loose? The other wheel is perfect, which I expected as much. It makes no noise and was obviously braking to be able to exert a brake pull. Sorry about the pics. You can’t see much of the aforementioned problems.

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[1987 GMC Jimmy]

I repaired my drum, got the links, and springs that had broken off from a junk C10, and put it back together somewhat, but something’s wrong. At least I think it is, or I don’t know as much about drum brakes as I thought. The issue is with the bar. The front shoe isn’t making full contact with the link or the anchor pin. The other side is doing the same, but I haven’t touched it. Also, I took the spring and retainer were off to get the bar fitted in there, but this is my main snag now. Any help? Oh, @78C10BigTen I got the stuff I needed. Thanks for looking out.

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[78C10BigTen]

I repaired my drum, got the links, and springs that had broken off from a junk C10, and put it back together somewhat, but something’s wrong. At least I think it is, or I don’t know as much about drum brakes as I thought. The issue is with the bar. The front shoe isn’t making full contact with the link or the anchor pin. The other side is doing the same, but I haven’t touched it. Also, I took the spring and retainer were off to get the bar fitted in there, but this is my main snag now. Any help? Oh, @78C10BigTen I got the stuff I needed. Thanks for looking out.

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No problem!

 

[78C10BigTen]

I see youve got 6 lug drums... any chance you have a junk spare drum??

 

[1987 GMC Jimmy]

I see youve got 6 lug drums... any chance you have a junk spare drum??

No, I’m afraid not. I almost did because I knocked the weights off one of them, but I got some weights off a five lug drum and repaired (or at least tried) it to avoid getting a new one if possible when the old one was still in good shape inside.

 

[Turbo4whl]

I repaired my drum, got the links, and springs that had broken off from a junk C10, and put it back together somewhat, but something’s wrong. At least I think it is, or I don’t know as much about drum brakes as I thought. The issue is with the bar. The front shoe isn’t making full contact with the link or the anchor pin. The other side is doing the same, but I haven’t touched it. Also, I took the spring and retainer were off to get the bar fitted in there, but this is my main snag now. Any help? Oh, @78C10BigTen I got the stuff I needed. Thanks for looking out.

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The forward shoe is off the the wear pads on the backing plate. This last picture shows that. If you had to pound the drum off there was wear in the drum from the lining area. Since the lining does not reach the edge of the drum a ridge forms.

When the adjuster is working, the shoes are adjusted out. If you don't wind the star wheel adjuster in before removing the drum there is not enough room in the drum with the ridge to allow it to be removed. When it is pulled or pounded off this way the shoes are pulled off their resting wear pads on the backing plate.

Seeing in another picture the the star adjuster looks very rusted. You should really replace all the hardware and get the rear brakes working properly. From you own statement, you are not familiar with drum brakes. Please, brakes are important. I will answer any questions you have.

 

[78C10BigTen]

No, I’m afraid not. I almost did because I knocked the weights off one of them, but I got some weights off a five lug drum and repaired (or at least tried) it to avoid getting a new one if possible when the old one was still in good shape inside.

That sucks. Im only lookin for a junker to test fit. I have a 10 bolt from an 87 with my 78' big ten 12 bolt backing plates and brakes on it, im tryin to swap from 5 lug to 6 and need to know what drums to buy. I kinda feel like stevie wonder here lol

 

[1987 GMC Jimmy]

That sucks. Im only lookin for a junker to test fit. I have a 10 bolt from an 87 with my 78' big ten 12 bolt backing plates and brakes on it, im tryin to swap from 5 lug to 6 and need to know what drums to buy. I kinda feel like stevie wonder here lol

@Vbb199 might be able to save you on that one from a parts standpoint.

 

[78C10BigTen]

@Vbb199 might be able to save you on that one from a parts standpoint.

Well i snagged a 6 lug drum from an 87 blazer with a ten bolt from the local you yank it yard today so once i get to pullin my drum to compare... hopefully ill know what to buy

 

[Goldie Driver]

The good news is that it’s just one: the rear DS brake. The bad news is I hate drum brakes. I knew because it was pulling to the right when braking even though the front have already been done, and are in perfect shape. I pulled this drum and found...

• One wheel cylinder link missing and the other not engaging the shoe at all - I ordered a set from NAPA today that looked right, and I’ll see if they match.
• A retainer spring and cup had come off the rear shoe so that whole shoe was just dangling there.
• The brake bar lever and all the parking brake linkage was also dangling.
• Finally, and this one is my fault, when I first got the truck and was fairly in over my head, I knocked the drum weights off trying to free the drum.

Overall, it’s strange to me how this happened. It’s my first time pulling the rears apart (it’s always been something else but now that it’s running right for the first time in a year and a half I can move closer to getting it how I want it). I don’t know what else to do except replace what’s damaged or missing and button it back up.

The only thing I would like to compromise on is the drum. If someone has some weights, they can be tackwelded on, there are marks on the face of the drum where they go, and it’ll be good to go. If not, I’d take a good drum that anyone had lying around as long as it had enough metal to warrant staving off getting a new one. I haven’t gotten the thickness on mine yet. Anyone have weights or an extra 11” six lug drum? Also, anyone have a clue why things popped off and led to this chain reaction of **** being broken? Could have been the improper drum balancing vibrated things loose? The other wheel is perfect, which I expected as much. It makes no noise and was obviously braking to be able to exert a brake pull. Sorry about the pics. You can’t see much of the aforementioned problems.

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Old one, but in your case the right rear was working and the left not, which caused a pull to the right ?

Same issue here although based on a finger temp feel of the drums I believe both are working.

All hardware and the wheel cylinders are new , but being they are probably Chinesium I can see the possibility that the left is not working as well as the right.

I'd be willing to buy another and change it once it quits the rain.

Thanks!

Britt

 

[1987 GMC Jimmy]

Exactly. Driver side rear was messed up, and it pulled to the right. There were several things wrong here. Missing hardware, albeit small pieces like a c clip, missing wheel cylinder link, and one of those little spring cups was hogged out and fell down so the rear shoe was essentially being Wild Bill Hickok but not being actuated. Then the parking brake end was seized in the extended position, which not only was causing issues when it was assembled, it wouldn’t let me put it back together after the fact. They sell the repair kit on LMC, but I didn’t wait and just disconnected the cable end and reassembled. I guess the two issues, hardware and parking brake, cancelled each other out somewhat until I took it apart and couldn’t put it back together. It works fine now.

 

[Goldie Driver]

I changed the wheel cylinder Tuesday evening - still playing with it as that may have fixed it but not 100 percent sure.

Next step will be swapping drums side to side as I have read that is a potential solution.

Still testing, though.

Nice thing about changing the wheel cylinder is that only one spring needs to come off and gravity bleeding works, so it is not as hard as it sounds.