Best sounding squarebody mufflers?

[Arkansas_V8]

If I recall and based on the fact you only bought 1 muffler I can assume you have a single exhaust. Glass packs due sound good at first, but will blow out over time. My first car was a 64 Chevelle with a 283 V8. I was in high school and added a dual exhaust system. Sounded great and was inexpensive.

I've probably 30 or more exhaust systems done over the years, glass pack, turbo mufflers, Flowmasters, etc. I had some cheap $25 turbos on my current truck after I had the new engine installed before I couldn't stand the OEM stock mufflers. I really didn't like the sound. Kind of hollow even though it ended at the rear axle. I switched back to Flowmaster Super 40's cause I like the sound and they have a larger case than the standard 40's.

Opinions are like ********, everyone has one. I just like the sound of Flowmasters. Summit Racing makes some knock off for about $25-30. Here's my truck with the Flowmasters and a fully smogged 454, dual to the rear bumper and a cross over. Sorry I filmed it with an old iPhone.

@thecantaloupeman If you are interested, I'll send you the turbo mufflers for free. They're brand new and only have about 200-300 miles on them. I remember being young. Here's a link to them. Just PM your info.
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/wlk-17615

xc_hide_links_from_guests_guests_error_hide_media

Sounds good. The quality was just fine. My prior cheap Galaxy was like filming with those big old VHS recorders. LOL

 

[thecantaloupeman]

If I recall and based on the fact you only bought 1 muffler I can assume you have a single exhaust. Glass packs due sound good at first, but will blow out over time. My first car was a 64 Chevelle with a 283 V8. I was in high school and added a dual exhaust system. Sounded great and was inexpensive.

I've probably 30 or more exhaust systems done over the years, glass pack, turbo mufflers, Flowmasters, etc. I had some cheap $25 turbos on my current truck after I had the new engine installed before I couldn't stand the OEM stock mufflers. I really didn't like the sound. Kind of hollow even though it ended at the rear axle. I switched back to Flowmaster Super 40's cause I like the sound and they have a larger case than the standard 40's.

Opinions are like ********, everyone has one. I just like the sound of Flowmasters. Summit Racing makes some knock off for about $25-30. Here's my truck with the Flowmasters and a fully smogged 454, dual to the rear bumper and a cross over. Sorry I filmed it with an old iPhone.

@thecantaloupeman If you are interested, I'll send you the turbo mufflers for free. They're brand new and only have about 200-300 miles on them. I remember being young. Here's a link to them. Just PM your info.
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/wlk-17615

xc_hide_links_from_guests_guests_error_hide_media

Thanks for the offer but for now I think I'm going to try out the glasspacks. If I don't like it I'll get back to you but I don't have enough room to have two extra mufflers sitting around if I end up not using them. I really appreciate the offer though!

 

[thecantaloupeman]

in my world, displacement, compression and cam make more of a difference than muffler brands.
The more, the better!

Well I was considering putting some headers on too. I still have the stock manifolds and I found a pair of headers for an sbc for 25$ on craigslist. I dont think they are stainless steel but most headers are pretty similar right?

https://denver.craigslist.org/pts/d/littleton-small-block-chevy-headers-and/7087498764.html

 

[DoubleDingo]

If the one glass pack is too loud you can mellow it down with a short glass pack upstream. It has a great sound, not quiet but not obnoxious.

 

[80BrownK10]

Well I was considering putting some headers on too. I still have the stock manifolds and I found a pair of headers for an sbc for 25$ on craigslist. I dont think they are stainless steel but most headers are pretty similar right?

https://denver.craigslist.org/pts/d/littleton-small-block-chevy-headers-and/7087498764.html

You will have to redo your whole exhaust if you get headers. They don't just fit in place of your manifolds.

 

[thecantaloupeman]

You will have to redo your whole exhaust if you get headers. They don't just fit in place of your manifolds.

Oh really? I kinda figured they would just go down to the y adapter. If it’s gonna be that much trouble I probably won’t bother right now.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[DoubleDingo]

Nope, whole redo with headers. Shorties or long tube, doesn't matter, new exhaust needed.

On the other hand cutting pipe to have a new muffler welded in is easy and the exhaust shop can do it in about 15-20 minutes or less.

 

[shiftpro]

Well I was considering putting some headers on too. I still have the stock manifolds and I found a pair of headers for an sbc for 25$ on craigslist. I dont think they are stainless steel but most headers are pretty similar right?

https://denver.craigslist.org/pts/d/littleton-small-block-chevy-headers-and/7087498764.html

What you want to avoid are those with flimsy flanges. Can't tell from the pic. And if the rust isn't too deep, get them a deep sandblasted and paint with header paint. Good price if they're not junk..

 

[thecantaloupeman]

What you want to avoid are those with flimsy flanges. Can't tell from the pic. And if the rust isn't too deep, get them a deep sandblasted and paint with header paint. Good price if they're not junk..

So I’m supposed to be getting my new tailpipe in today. Two questions, should I paint/coat it in anything to prevent rust?

I also would be interested to know what in the world this is inside the input end which I found on both the pipe and the leftover part of the muffler.

You must be registered for see images attach

You must be registered for see images attach

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[DoubleDingo]

You should have taken to the exhaust shop first. But, now that you've cut it take it down there, have them cut extra pipe out to remove that butt crack looking thing and weld in a short piece of pipe along with the glasspack. Done Don't paint it, it looks fine.

 

[thecantaloupeman]

You should have taken to the exhaust shop first. But, now that you've cut it take it down there, have them cut extra pipe out to remove that butt crack looking thing and weld in a short piece of pipe along with the glasspack. Done Don't paint it, it looks fine.

Well I originally planned to just use an exhaust connector/adapter and some exhaust clamps so that I don’t have to pay an exhaust shop to do it. I still don’t know what the purpose of the buttcrack thing was and why it was there.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[DoubleDingo]

I had mine done last year, same thing you're doing. Took it in with the muffler intact, he cut the old one out, buzzed off the ends of the new glasspack and welded it in to the tune of $40.

 

[DoubleDingo]

I didn't like the sound, so I got a short cherry bomb, took that in and same thing, $40. Probably could have got it all done $60 if I had done it all at once, but I couldn't find the glass packs I wanted at the same time I was taking it in so I had to do it in multiple trips.

 

[RecklessWOT]

Don't paint anything. It's normal for exhaust to get surface rust on it like that. It actually rusts out from the inside from the heating and cooling, and moisture. If you paint the outside the paint will really do you no good, and it will just burn off and stink. Even the high heat paint will just burn away eventually. ALL exhaust systems (except stainless ones) have surface rust on them, it's 100% normal.

Hah, and that butt crack shaped thing almost looks like someone bought the wrong size muffler and just crimped the end of it in on itself to be able to fit it inside the smaller stock pipe. That's nuts

 

[shiftpro]

So I’m supposed to be getting my new tailpipe in today. Two questions, should I paint/coat it in anything to prevent rust?

I also would be interested to know what in the world this is inside the input end which I found on both the pipe and the leftover part of the muffler.

You must be registered for see images attach

You must be registered for see images attach

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I've seen that butt crack thing before... The outer layer pf the twin waled exhaust tube has rusted enough to yield to the pressure from a muffler clamp. The inner tube just folds over like this.

I have had good success painting exhaust tubing. I used an aluminum heat paint. Just be sure to degrease the tubes if you want to paint. And if you weld on, full wled or just a tack, remember to crawl back under with the heat paint rattle can and hit the welds.
It's still going to rust, but will in fact take longer. Or you can clean up rusty shadows that will eventually return and hit with the paint. Depends how much you love the underside of your truck!