Ball Joint Replacement

[bucket]

When I installed my Jip shaft, my spokes stayed right on target. Of course, I was very careful of how I did it to keep it that way since it was perfect before I started, I didn't want to mess that up. In this case, you just need to loosen the end at the steer box, turn the wheel the clock it right, then tighten it back up.

It only goes on one way?

 

[jgasca]

I was just looking at an Astro shaft the other day, it looked way too short. It must extend a good amount.

When I put the Jeep shaft in my S10, the steering wheel was only off-center a small amount. Odd.

On another thread on here, they stated that only the 96 or later models of the astro van would be long enough to work.

It only goes on one way?

You are correct, the teeth at the steering box has a flat section where it only fits on the shaft one way.

I guess i'll be going back to the junk yard for a jeep cherokee steering shaft.

Just to make sure this time, which will fit.... the cherokee and the wrangler???

 

[89Suburban]

On another thread on here, they stated that only the 96 or later models of the astro van would be long enough to work.

Where is this located?

You are correct, the teeth at the steering box has a flat section where it only fits on the shaft one way.

I guess i'll be going back to the junk yard for a jeep cherokee steering shaft.

Just to make sure this time, which will fit.... the cherokee and the wrangler???

Looks like Cherokee only according to the write up. 88-96 only, and not the Grand Cherokee.

http://www.gmsquarebody.com/forum/showthread.php?t=1812

 

[bucket]

You are correct, the teeth at the steering box has a flat section where it only fits on the shaft one way.

Yeah I know, but HRPC was talking like it is adjustable. That's what I'm confused about.

 

[HotRodPC]

It only goes on one way?

Huh??? I'm just talking about aligning the spokes of the steer wheel. He says the Astro shaft is what has the spokes clocked wrong.

 

[HotRodPC]

On another thread on here, they stated that only the 96 or later models of the astro van would be long enough to work.



You are correct, the teeth at the steering box has a flat section where it only fits on the shaft one way.

I guess i'll be going back to the junk yard for a jeep cherokee steering shaft.

Just to make sure this time, which will fit.... the cherokee and the wrangler???

OK, so the shaft is keyed at the gear box end, and of course the D shaft will only got on one way, this means, pulling the steering wheel to make that correction. You could do it by alignment also, but this far off, I'd be afraid, one tie rod end will be way long, and the other way short.

 

[jgasca]

Where is this located?

I must of been another forum, which of course I can't find right now.
They spoke of the astro van steering column being safer due to its ability to collapse in case of a head on accident.....not sure if the jeep steering shaft can or not......

OK, so the shaft is keyed at the gear box end, and of course the D shaft will only got on one way, this means, pulling the steering wheel to make that correction. You could do it by alignment also, but this far off, I'd be afraid, one tie rod end will be way long, and the other way short.

So i tried taking off my steering wheel to make the adjustment, I think this adjustment can only be done on earlier models...so I was told. But I couldn't find how to do it. I think i'll just be getting a jeep shaft and cross my fingers!!

 

[HotRodPC]

Yes, the Jip steering shaft will collapse. I wouldn't have done it to my truck if it didn't and probably even more so than the Astro shaft. If you see the 2 while plastic filled dots in the shaft, those are designed to break loose and let the shaft slide into itself. On my Jip shaft upgrade, I simply put RTV silicone around the top 2-3 inches of the inner shaft just to work as a cushion between the 2 shafts, but yet be able to collapse and it's got about 4 inches of room to do so, not to mention the U Joints in the shaft break away quite easy. I know becasue I pryed a little bit on one of the Jip shafts when removing it from the donor Jip at the salvage yard, and the U joint section broke. I'm only talking maybe 25-30 lbs of force and broke, so I know in a collision that can also break away at either the gear box end or the column end and fall away from the steering colunm in a serious frontal collision.

A good old hs buddy of mine's brother was killed in a survivable accident in a Dodge Power Wagon 4x4, probably a mid to late 70's truck, when the steering wheel broke away in his hands from him holding on so tight and pushing, then the steering column came into the cab and up and stabbed him the adams apple and killed him instantly on impact. I seen the truck, yes it was a hard hit, but with a seat belt on, he should have survived. The part of the steering wheel that was left was about a foot from the cab roof, and about a foot from the back glass that was also broke out from the back of his head hitting it. I firmly believe he'd have survived if the steering column would have collapsed.

 

[jgasca]

Yes, the Jip steering shaft will collapse. I wouldn't have done it to my truck if it didn't and probably even more so than the Astro shaft. If you see the 2 while plastic filled dots in the shaft, those are designed to break loose and let the shaft slide into itself. On my Jip shaft upgrade, I simply put RTV silicone around the top 2-3 inches of the inner shaft just to work as a cushion between the 2 shafts, but yet be able to collapse and it's got about 4 inches of room to do so, not to mention the U Joints in the shaft break away quite easy. I know becasue I pryed a little bit on one of the Jip shafts when removing it from the donor Jip at the salvage yard, and the U joint section broke. I'm only talking maybe 25-30 lbs of force and broke, so I know in a collision that can also break away at either the gear box end or the column end and fall away from the steering colunm in a serious frontal collision.

A good old hs buddy of mine's brother was killed in a survivable accident in a Dodge Power Wagon 4x4, probably a mid to late 70's truck, when the steering wheel broke away in his hands from him holding on so tight and pushing, then the steering column came into the cab and up and stabbed him the adams apple and killed him instantly on impact. I seen the truck, yes it was a hard hit, but with a seat belt on, he should have survived. The part of the steering wheel that was left was about a foot from the cab roof, and about a foot from the back glass that was also broke out from the back of his head hitting it. I firmly believe he'd have survived if the steering column would have collapsed.

Wow, well now I know what I need. Now I have to wait the long wait till Friday.... School and work combined give no life!!

 

[bucket]

OK, so the shaft is keyed at the gear box end, and of course the D shaft will only got on one way, this means, pulling the steering wheel to make that correction. You could do it by alignment also, but this far off, I'd be afraid, one tie rod end will be way long, and the other way short.

You only have a small amount of adjustment in the steering wheel, due to the cancel cam/horn contact poking through the hub of the wheel.

 

[Chevyguy]

I notice you didn't mention autozone.... bad parts or past experience?
Locally all we have is an Autozone and O'Reily's, other than that I guess I could order online, but in most cases I need the parts asap to put them on the same or next day.



If I manage to do one said with little or no problems, then yeah doing both sides would make sense, I just got intimidated by the high prices to do the job, so I was thinking this would really be difficult. A local shop here said that the job usually took about 5 hours to finish one wheel, I'm sure he said that to make his share of the profit.

So would following the autozone instructions be best or is there an easier way?

I think realignment is also included in that quote, I did this type of work and alignments when I worked for Firestone. It takes about an hour and a half to do everything when you have all the tools and have done it a few times. I never used the ball joint removal tool. I used an impact socket and an extension and used a big hammer to beat the ball joints out of the knuckle. You will need a pickle fork though, and the four wheel drive hub socket that fits your trucks front axles. Repack your bearings while you've got everything apart.

Clayton

 

[Chevyguy]

So is eyeballed center good enough to adjust the toe by tape measure? That toe changes through the steer arc correct? So you want one or the other tires dead straight to adjust the toe right? String line to the rear wheel?

Hope your floors level. I'ed just take it in to a reputable shop and have it aligned. I worked for Firestone so I did my own work, and alignments. Take your rig for a test drive after you have it aligned just to make sure it's tracking straight and not pulling. If your tires are worn more on one side due to the worn parts rotate them or replace them. Worn tires can cause a pull as you know. I always test drove em after I aligned them because I wanted the vehicle tracking straight and the steering wheel centered. I was flat rate and I couldn't afford to have to do an alignment twice, plus having the customer mad at me for them having to come back for something that should have been done right the first time.

Clayton