Bad Combo?

[RangRayy]

While switching over to carb am I unplugging my ECM essentially? Not removing it of course just won't be hooked up to anything or controlling anything with the new HEI?

 

[RangRayy]

Changing the governor on a TH350 is a half hour job, assuming it takes you fifteen minutes to pry the cap off. I have an extra "one-size heavier" weight for a TH350 I can let you have, since they come in pairs and I only needed one.

Where is the governor on a th350? If you're willing to part with it I would definitely take it off your hands.

 

[firebane]

Where is the governor on a th350? If you're willing to part with it I would definitely take it off your hands.

Driver side. Get under the truck and look up. Its a round cap with a small spring holding the cover on. It can be a bit messy as well so be warned.

 

[rich weyand]

The governor is behind a little cap retained with a bail on the driver's side of the transmission. Unsnap the bail, pull off the cap, and the governor just pulls out. Here is what it looks like. You break off the staked end of one of the hinge pins, replace one weight with one size heavier, and use a #6 finish nail as a new hinge pin, then bend it over a bit so it can't come out. Use the same springs. Reinsert in the transmission and put the cover back on and snap the bail in place. You might want to get a new cover (they're cheap) because there is an O-ring in there and it's probably 30 years old.

What I have that I can mail you if you decide to go this way is the heavier weight piece you need to modify the governor as above. If you go with the 12-235-2 cam, you don't need it. If you go with the 12-300-4 cam, you will need it.

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Confirm 2104 manifold looks right.

Somebody here should be able to recommend a stock-curve HEI here for not too much money. I never had to replace mine, so no recommendations here. Same with fuel pressure regulator.

 

[rich weyand]

Driver side. Get under the truck and look up. Its a round cap with a small spring holding the cover on. It can be a bit messy as well so be warned.

Yeah, it'll leak maybe a shot glass or two of ATF. Not too bad.

If you do go with the 12-300-4 and need that part, PM me your address.

 

[firebane]

I picked up a B&M kit and it comes with all new rods and EXTREMELY small c clips that even blinking they go missing!

Should also note you'll probably only need to change one side of weights and not both so don't take out both unless needed.

 

[RangRayy]

Yeah, it'll leak maybe a shot glass or two of ATF. Not too bad.

If you do go with the 12-300-4 and need that part, PM me your address.

thanks that would help alot.

 

[RangRayy]

so to be clear 12-300-4 will work with the stock heads? or will i be looking at changing out the springs as well? also a recommended timing chain and gear set.

well just by doing some clicking i found this kit:
http://www.compperformancegroupstor...re_Code=CC&Screen=PROD&Product_Code=K12-300-4

little pricey but i knew that going into this project.

 

[rich weyand]

That's not bad for all you get. You do need the lifters, no ifs, ands, or buts. 12-300-4 is stock lift (one thing to recommend it, you won't be beating up the valve train), so stock springs are OK, but why wouldn't you replace them while you're in there on an older engine. Same with timing sprockets and chain. And retainers and seals.

Looks like a good deal to me. Remember you started out talking about superchargers and transmissions and axles!

And almost $30 cheaper at Summit:
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/cca-k12-300-4

And, yes, I am running the 12-300-4 with the stock heads.

 

[MadOgre]

Ya get the full kit. For what it costs its worth the peace of mind , plus the performance will be that much better!

Edelbrock # 2104 is the (non EGR) spread bore intake for 87-95 cast iron heads. Its basically the performer 2101 intake but altered for the correct angle of the center intake bolts.

The recommended intake gasket is a GM#10159409

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As for the ECM once you have a carb and Stock HEI ignition you will not need the use of the ECM. Im not sure how that would work with the check engine lights and oil pressure and what not. IM not sure if the 87 ECM is strictly for engine calibration or if it feeds the cluster for other things too. Im pretty sure it doesn't affect anything but the engine but maybe @RetroC10Sport would know for sure or @chengny

 

[MadOgre]

Also remember to break the cam in for 20-30 minutes with lots of ZDDP @ 2000 RPM. Just follow the instructions that come with it, but run the ZDDP while breaking it in.

 

[MadOgre]

I would almost want to install the intake and carb with HEI before installing the cam. Make sure it all runs just fine. Set the timing and mark it. Then install the cam. This way when you go to fire the cam up for the first time it will start with no issues.

 

[rich weyand]

But the intake and carb have to come back off to install the cam. Lots of extra work.

 

[MadOgre]

Ya I know but im OCD

 

[RangRayy]

I would almost want to install the intake and carb with HEI before installing the cam. Make sure it all runs just fine. Set the timing and mark it. Then install the cam. This way when you go to fire the cam up for the first time it will start with no issues.

You know that's what I was thinking of doing at first. Just to make sure I have the carb set up right and all that is worked out and make sure it fires up and runs without a problem.

I am a shade tree mechanic and I know things to get me by but messing with the valve train is new to me. I have never messed with springs or valves or replacing them and the seals. I do have a valve that leaks a bit of oil as it sits over night and puffs blue smoke at start up but it's very common for he motors. But for being 28 years old I might as well attempt it for peace of mind.