86 C10 454 popping out exhaust soft and loud at times while in Idle. (WHY) Video inside

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Nasty-LSX

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I almost never drive it. It has good gas in it. It idles smooth, revs up great, drives fine.
All of a sudden I get these soft and loud pops when its idling. What could be causing this?

Turn your volume UP!!!

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squaredeal91

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Spark plug wires probably. Watch your wires at night without light and see if you see it arc somewhere.
 

fast 99

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Exhaust leak? power brake, easiest to locate with a stethoscope. O2 can enter if exhaust can escape.

Loose exhaust guides can cause that and still maintain even vacuum.
 

squaredeal91

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Exhaust leak? power brake, easiest to locate with a stethoscope. O2 can enter if exhaust can escape.

Loose exhaust guides can cause that and still maintain even vacuum.
Didn't know that about valve guide seals. Can it still cause a soft little pop with bad valve guide seals even if it doesn't seem to ever smoke or use oil? I'm wondering if that is possible.
 

squaredeal91

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Not the seals, actual guide or valve stem wear. Known issue with big blocks. When running valve wobbles in the head, doesn't seal properly. Eliminate everything else first.
Thank you! That is helpful information. I'm trying to track down a similar thing on our 99 350. It just bugs me when something don't run or idle right.
 

RanchWelder

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Adjust your lifters, so you are absolutely certain they are within lash spec for your cam manufacturer.

Check for lose rocker adjustment studs?
Look for threads are worn and the stock crush lock nut is not worn out and rotating under vibration.
Sometimes they loosen up and that can throw a valve or bend a pushrod, left unattended.

Check for the green rubber three striped o-ring at the ignition module connector, if you have a weatherpack connector to your distributor housing. Sometimes moisture get unders the cap and the heat sink past on the ignition module dries out.
If the module has 4500 ohms instead of 5000 ohms, it's bad. Only ones I can get to work are ACDelco.
Same with wires, as already suggested.
Plug check will tell you a lot, if one's not brown like the others should be.


The NON-ACDelco wires have been the cause of my stumbles with OBD1.
Ignition module failure from a leaking connector and bad ohms, as well.

If one of your rockers has lossened up and the hreads are sloppy for standard lock nuts, you might want to invest in some taller covers with poly-locks, so they stay put, once you set them.

That backfire could bend something or start a fire out the carb, if you don't find it.
Check you cap and rotor for corrosion and loose screws too.

Last thing if everything else seems OK:
If you burn corn fuel, E-15, E-55 or E-85, the carb fuel ports and venturies could be clogged and use a good cleaning?
If it's a well used carb, you could have a leak at the throttle shaft bushings or a squirter is dripping.
Worn casting or bad bronz bushing on the throttle shaft?
Spray the carb casing and the vacuum ports and listen for idle improvement?

Try soaking ithe carb and check the orofices with a set of acetalene tip cleaners, if the throttle shaft is indeed still sealed and not the leak. Meybe a chunk of crud is partially blocking a vacuum port on the carb?
You could have a pinhole leak in the accellerator pump gasket or the carb base gasket leaking.
This usually causes idle issues.

I have heard of a chunk of casting flash inside the carb chambers causing this issue.

If you have smog system attached, anything in that mess could be suspect as well.
Let's hope that it just wants a new set of ACDelco wires.
 
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Nasty-LSX

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Check for the green rubber three striped o-ring at the ignition module connector, if you have a weatherpack connector to your distributor housing. Sometimes moisture get unders the cap and the heat sink past on the ignition module dries out.
If the module has 4500 ohms instead of 5000 ohms, it's bad. Only ones I can get to work are ACDelco.
Same with wires, as already suggested.
Plug check will tell you a lot, if one's not brown like the others should be.
Brand new accel DIZZY.
 

RanchWelder

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If the cam to distributor gear is lumpy, and you need to remove it and try an OEM melonized gear, with the old push pin, it might stop jumping around?

It's the lil' shirt that will get you. Bad grind on the melonized gear?
Worn cam gear driving the dizzy? Lil' slop somewhere?
Plastic connector between the oil pump rod and the camshaft to dizzy rod?
The AEM oil pump rod, with the steel ends, resolves the plastic part cracking and malfunctioning the drive line to the oil pump.
One carb tuning event could backfire and crack that lil' plastic part very easily.
Especially if that '99 has a lil' extra compression?

"Too thick" or no gasket on the Dizzy?

I have another Mark VI 7.4L Vortec Core ready for rebuild if you need one.
Heads are available too.
 
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Nasty-LSX

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I have another Mark VI 7.4L Vortec Core ready for rebuild if you need one.
Heads are available too.
:893Chainsaw-Smilie-
Awesome man. Thanks so much! I really dont need it. But they are beast motors!!
 

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