83 suburban springs

[squareton]

Hi Im looking into possibly adding new springs to my 83 k2500 gmc suburban but have a couple of questions first. I dont want to go too high and create any issues since this is going to be my daily driver, is there a small spring lift that wouldnt require me to change steering or brake lines? Would a 2.5 inch lift be ok for this? It does need new spring bushings and it has 285x16s on it and rubs the rear of the front tire on the flat steps behind it. Any idea if just putting new springs on might raise it up enough to stop this? I know, its hard to tell how much its sagging lol. Thanks for the help!

 

[mtbadbob]

I did a 2" Add-A-Leaf on the front from Suspension Connection. It definitely will make it ride a bit firmer, but gives it a nice, suttle lift.

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[squareton]

Thanks, I am not sure I would try adding a leaf with mine only because it rides so stiff as it is LOL

 

[bucket]

I had an '86 K20 Burb with an add-a-leaf in the front, it rode terrible. Like old Rancho springs from back in the day.

2.5" lift springs are probably the best bet, but you will need to at least run 3" blocks out back so it doesn't look goofy.

 

[Frankenchevy]

What’s your budget for the lift?

 

[squareton]

I just want to make it right but I dont want to get into unintended issues like having to add drop or cross steering arms I think theyre called. Id like to just add a couple inch lift and new shocks to match for now. Money is not a concern for the most part

 

[bucket]

I just want to make it right but I dont want to get into unintended issues like having to add drop or cross steering arms I think theyre called. Id like to just add a couple inch lift and new shocks to match for now. Money is not a concern for the most part

That's very good. With a small lift like that, you generally don't have to do anything with steering angles, driveline angles and often don't even need to lengthen the brake hoses (although a nice quality set of stainless braided hoses are nice upgrade for even a stock height truck) so it makes it very simple.

Tuff Country and BDS are off-the-shelf type springs that ride like stock or even slightly better. If you give Offroad Design a call, they can custom tailor springs exactly for your needs and it will give you the nicest ride possible. It's expensive, but if it fits in the budget then it's worth it.

 

[squareton]

That's very good. With a small lift like that, you generally don't have to do anything with steering angles, driveline angles and often don't even need to lengthen the brake hoses (although a nice quality set of stainless braided hoses are nice upgrade for even a stock height truck) so it makes it very simple.

Tuff Country and BDS are off-the-shelf type springs that ride like stock or even slightly better. If you give Offroad Design a call, they can custom tailor springs exactly for your needs and it will give you the nicest ride possible. It's expensive, but if it fits in the budget then it's worth it.

Thanks for the info, I checked it out really good this afternoon and the rear has 7+1 springs. Any idea what the gvw would be with those? I also got lucky (i think lol) and someone added rear disc, it looks like the kit from lugnut4x4 and it has longer braided brake hoses already there. The problem is there isnt any proportioning valve I can find and when I brake hard the left front locks up, it stops fine but I dont think this thing will be very fun to stop in the winter.

 

[squareton]

I had an '86 K20 Burb with an add-a-leaf in the front, it rode terrible. Like old Rancho springs from back in the day.

2.5" lift springs are probably the best bet, but you will need to at least run 3" blocks out back so it doesn't look goofy.

what if I added 2.5 inch lift springs to the back at the same time? I wouldnt need the 3 inch blocks then would I?

 

[bucket]

Thanks for the info, I checked it out really good this afternoon and the rear has 7+1 springs. Any idea what the gvw would be with those? I also got lucky (i think lol) and someone added rear disc, it looks like the kit from lugnut4x4 and it has longer braided brake hoses already there. The problem is there isnt any proportioning valve I can find and when I brake hard the left front locks up, it stops fine but I dont think this thing will be very fun to stop in the winter.

It may be a higher GVW like 8600 if the rear springs are stock. I think 7+1 is about a thick a pack as it got from the factory in Suburbans. Many have had a leaf or two added in though.

Does it pull to one side if you get hard on the brakes? The factory prop valve is mounted down under the radiator area, on the forward frame crossmember.

what if I added 2.5 inch lift springs to the back at the same time? I wouldnt need the 3 inch blocks then would I?

Correct. Personally though, I think the factory rear springs ride well and I like to keep them if no leaves are broken. Properly installed blocks (cast, not aluminum) work fine and millions of modern trucks have been produced with them.

Then there's also the option of a rear shackle flip kit. That gives the lift you need and you get to keep the original springs. The drawback is you normally have to mess with the pinion angle and you also have to adjust the fore/aft of the axle to get it centered in the wheelwell again.

 

[squareton]

It may be a higher GVW like 8600 if the rear springs are stock. I think 7+1 is about a thick a pack as it got from the factory in Suburbans. Many have had a leaf or two added in though.

Does it pull to one side if you get hard on the brakes? The factory prop valve is mounted down under the radiator area, on the forward frame crossmember.



Correct. Personally though, I think the factory rear springs ride well and I like to keep them if no leaves are broken. Properly installed blocks (cast, not aluminum) work fine and millions of modern trucks have been produced with them.

Then there's also the option of a rear shackle flip kit. That gives the lift you need and you get to keep the original springs. The drawback is you normally have to mess with the pinion angle and you also have to adjust the fore/aft of the axle to get it centered in the wheelwell again.

Thanks, I couldnt find the rpo list in the glove box so I have no idea what this thing was built with but I can say I think the springs are all stock because the bushings are shot enough to have a clunk when you give it gas to take off. I would love to keep the springs but it kinda makes sense to just get new ones if i need to redo the bushings anyway. The main reason I wanted to add a lift is the front tires hitting on turns because they are 285/70s. Ill look into how hard itll be to just replace the bushings, I know all the chevelles I used to do were a bear to replace and I dont imagine these will be any different lol.

Yes the brakes pull hard to the left and the left front is the brake grabbing the best it feels like. Itll lock up the front left tire but after it does that its hard to tell what else is happening hahaha

 

[bucket]

Thanks, I couldnt find the rpo list in the glove box so I have no idea what this thing was built with but I can say I think the springs are all stock because the bushings are shot enough to have a clunk when you give it gas to take off. I would love to keep the springs but it kinda makes sense to just get new ones if i need to redo the bushings anyway. The main reason I wanted to add a lift is the front tires hitting on turns because they are 285/70s. Ill look into how hard itll be to just replace the bushings, I know all the chevelles I used to do were a bear to replace and I dont imagine these will be any different lol.

Yes the brakes pull hard to the left and the left front is the brake grabbing the best it feels like. Itll lock up the front left tire but after it does that its hard to tell what else is happening hahaha

You may still have the GVW info tag on your driver's door. They were usually mounted up high, on the window frame area. If it's there still, it may not be very legible anymore however.

For removing spring bushings, I normally use a combination of ball joint press and an air chisel. It works well for me. There's nothing wrong at all with replacing the rear springs for lift springs, it just costs a bunch more. You will also need to know which springs you have. A K20 could have 52" or 56" rear springs.

You could just have a RF caliper not working very well. Or if it's still stock style rubber brake hoses up there, it could be the culprit too.

 

[squareton]

You may still have the GVW info tag on your driver's door. They were usually mounted up high, on the window frame area. If it's there still, it may not be very legible anymore however.

For removing spring bushings, I normally use a combination of ball joint press and an air chisel. It works well for me. There's nothing wrong at all with replacing the rear springs for lift springs, it just costs a bunch more. You will also need to know which springs you have. A K20 could have 52" or 56" rear springs.

You could just have a RF caliper not working very well. Or if it's still stock style rubber brake hoses up there, it could be the culprit too.

Thanks, I have to measure the springs tomorrow and get my plan, I have a couple different ball joint presses, torch and air chisels so maybe ill just add a block and replace the bushings here and spend my money on the front springs. Do you think with a 2.5 front lift i will run into steering issues? While I do all the work ill replace the front brake hoses just to be sure. I didnt see a prop valve anywhere but ill check under the radiator and also above the door for the gvw sticker thanks again

 

[bucket]

Thanks, I have to measure the springs tomorrow and get my plan, I have a couple different ball joint presses, torch and air chisels so maybe ill just add a block and replace the bushings here and spend my money on the front springs. Do you think with a 2.5 front lift i will run into steering issues? While I do all the work ill replace the front brake hoses just to be sure. I didnt see a prop valve anywhere but ill check under the radiator and also above the door for the gvw sticker thanks again

There will be two sets of holes in the frame for the rear shackle hangers. If your hangers are in the forward set, you have the 52's. If in the rear set, you have 56's. It takes some of the guesswork out of measuring.

There should be no issues with the steering, other than adjusting the drag link to get the steering wheel centered again.

 

[Turbo4whl]

....... The problem is there isnt any proportioning valve I can find and when I brake hard the left front locks up, it stops fine but I dont think this thing will be very fun to stop in the winter.

Like Bucket stated, your brake pull is because there is a problem with the front brakes. Brake hose or caliper problem, but it also could be the right side is totally rusted and not doing anything. That also will make it pull left.