80 C10 "Nemo" Build - Started as: Front frame buckled…

[Trucksareforwork]

Wow, what a find.
Outstanding condition.
Back bumper looks straight.

The back bumper has a small dent on top about the size of the palm of your hand. It’s on the far side in this picture, but I think it could be straightened out. The Front bumper looks good.

Other than the surface rust, the only problem area looks like the core support brackets. They are rusted out inside the “O” and thinned some. I’m going to go ahead and replace them. Seems like minor surgery.

 

[Bennyt]

Everybody thought I was off my rocker suggesting the bad axx frame for $20K...
This truck would be amazing on the custom frame...

I'd custom roller that sweetie in a heartbeat...
Be the nicest junk hauler in my neighborhood, for sure!

This is probably over-cool (Corvette front/rear with a tunnel support):

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https://www.chevyhardcore.com/news/roadster-shops-c10-truck-chassis-is-a-rolling-fortress/

Canyon Racer... you're gonna want a bigger engine too

You are not wrong for suggesting an aftermarket chassis on a full build that has decent money into it. By the time you buy all the modern suspension, axles, brakes, and fool around with a 50 year old frame; you are more than halfway to the $20k. If you are doing a bagged truck, it makes even more sense.

There is probably 10+ companies making C10 frames now. And if I do another C10, I will as well. CPP is making some new frames for the 67-72, and if they come out with a Squarebody version I can swap my components onto, I'd buy it in a heartbeat.

 

[1STLS1]

If it's a beater, run it. The last guy most likely bent everything else to make it work because he couldn't fix the damage.

If it's a builder, measure it, there are frame specs on the internet and other forums. Find out how far the damage goes back. Don't be surprised to find it bellied behind the cab if it was a hard enough hit. Often times it's easier to swap a frame than find a competent frame shop that can do the job. '73-80 long bed frames are common and inexpensive and gives you a chance to rebuild the suspension and change mounts before you pull it apart.

 

[Trucksareforwork]

Got the frame stripped of brackets and suspension with the exception of one fuel line holder that I missed and one rear spring bracket that I’m still marinating in some penetrant. No surprises over all. Didn’t have to bring out the big guns for nuts and bolts( but I do have a full strength compressor and impact so some of y’all might consider that a big gun).

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Overall happy. It was hot today so I’m shutting it down. I may try to do some blasting on it tomorrow after work if the weather is good.

 

[Trucksareforwork]

I finished the blasting phase at least as far as I’m taking it with my harbor freight blaster.

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I spray-bottled some ospho all over to kill whatever rust is left.

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I still need to remove and replace the core support brackets and cut off the exhaust brackets. I wanted to wait on cutting the exhaust brackets off until I get some advice from the exhaust shop I use on what will make the cleanest dual exhaust install.

That’s all I got done yesterday and today. It has been in the 90s and I blast in a heavy fleece shirt jacket and a supplied air hood. I’m beat. Time for a drink.

Happy Independence Day y’all!

 

[Trucksareforwork]

As I noted, I'm going to be removing some of the old bracketry on the frame. The truck is an auto (TH350). Can anybody tell me why I should leave the z-bar bracket on the donor frame, which is from a 3 on the tree truck? I am thinking I'll cut it off.

 

[Bennyt]

As I noted, I'm going to be removing some of the old bracketry on the frame. The truck is an auto (TH350). Can anybody tell me why I should leave the z-bar bracket on the donor frame, which is from a 3 on the tree truck? I am thinking I'll cut it off.

I wouldn't cut it off. I'd drill it out and set it aside just in case or to pass along to someone who might need it.

 

[Trucksareforwork]

I wouldn't cut it off. I'd drill it out and set it aside just in case or to pass along to someone who might need it.

I should have written that clearer... I plan to drill / blow out the rivets and remove it from the frame, so yes, I'll keep it intact. Thanks...................

 

[Trucksareforwork]

Put some time in early this morning and removed the z bar bracket and the core support brackets. Removing the rivets was a first time thing for me but I went right for the plasma cutter and figured it out fairly quickly. I cut the heads off on the side with surface metal that I was removing (eg on the bracket metal side not the frame metal side), then blew out the rivets some to heat them up, then punched them out.

Only suffered a couple small nicks in the frame metal.

The frame metal is clean under the brackets, so all good.


Bracket before, you can see why I wanted to replace them:

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Z bar bracket:

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Z bar bracket removed and a quick wipe with a welding glove:

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Frame after core support bracket removed:

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[Trucksareforwork]

Neutralized the ospho on the frame today and sprayed it with epoxy.

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Also had kid help me by running the wire wheel on the bottom of the bed. He did a nice job overall. We washed it and ran some ospho over it to kill rust, then I sprayed it with epoxy but forgot to take a pic. I’ll fix that when I get back to the shop (now added below).

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The moment of agony today was realizing that (of course) I need to cut the spring hangers off the donor chassis because the truck has a lowering kit on it. I completely overlooked that and didn’t notice until I had laid the epoxy. Oh well. I’ve made worst mistakes. I will tackle that tomorrow.

 

[rusted nuts]

Cabs

Yeah. Reality is that the truck isn’t worth that level of investment at the moment (this isn’t the ‘85 in my profile, it’s an 80 that I picked up for relatively cheap). I think if I were to go the custom chassis route, I’d be starting with a better cab.

I thought titles went with the cab, not the frame, am I wrong on that?

@gritdog, the body lined up fine, fenders and front clip sit level, cab is square and doors open and shut better than my ‘85 that has new door pins, honestly. I’m still thinking weld on ears, but am going to measure and think about frame swap. The only reason for frame swap is resale, but if that messes up the clean title I have I’d rather just disclose the frame damage to the next fella and take the hit.

CABS and frames are BOTH stamps with VIN numbers

 

[Trucksareforwork]

Got the spring hangers de-riveted and cleaned up underneath, which wasn’t that bad. I used a cutoff wheel and cold chisel for the rivets this time since I had just painted the frame and didn’t figure the heat of the plasma rifle would be good for the fresh epoxy.

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Finally got the doors off the cab and the cab off the chassis and got some help from the oldest to pressure wash the rear axle and springs, the front suspension, and the cab inside and out. He got an AC leak repair and recharge on his F-350 out of the deal.

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The cab is probably the biggest job still, since the floors are really bad. More on that later.

My hope is to get the rear suspension painted and swapped over in the next 3-4 days (I work nights and weekends in the shop), then the front, and perhaps by next weekend start on the cab floors. We’ll see how much shop time I can carve out.

 

[Trucksareforwork]

Finally got things cleaned up enough to throw some epoxy on the spring hangers and rear end. I didn’t take enough pics but here is the rear end during paint.

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And here are the hangers.

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Probably looking at tomorrow for assembly of the hangers and maybe the rear end.

I pulled the drums and it looks like the drum brakes have never been serviced. That’s on the list now. The PO put drilled and slotted rotors on the front but didn’t bother to check the rears where the aft shoes were paper thin. That’s pretty consistent with the inconsistency of this truck.

I also had a helper work on the firewall and cowl with a wire wheel to start that cleanup.

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Next step is to start populating the donor frame with the rear end and what wiring makes sense, get the front suspension ready to transplant, and then start hacking on the cab floors.

 

[Trucksareforwork]

I was able to get the hangers and rear end installed on the donor frame this evening. I sourced new grade 8 hardware for the job and torqued down the spring hangers but haven’t torqued the shackles and spring eyes. I will tighten those up and then torque them when there’s load on the axle.

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Other than turning silver from all the anti seize I’m doin alright.

 

[RecklessWOT]

Couldn't cost much for a frame shop to pull that out straight, these frames are so flexible and although it's "buckled" I don't see any kinks/cracks/tears, can't cost more than a few hundred to fix. Much easier and cheaper than a frame swap.

OR

you said it drives straight, I think you stressed it drives really nice actually. So who cares if the frame isn't shaped the way it was from the factory? Not falling apart, goes down the road straight and not burning off tires or anything, Personally I wouldn't think twice about it, rig up some ears to mount a proper bumper and run the thing as is.