350 small block build

[caleb chapdelaine]

I just got a block for a 350 sb, looking to build it to where it’ll put out some decent power for a k10. It’s gonna be a budget build. What are some good heads and etc won’t break the bank, thank you.

 

[nabeshin]

As you price things out, look into the Edelbrock performance packages. They include the heads, intake, and cam, etc; all matched to work together. Different power levels available, takes the guesswork out of matching parts.

For just heads, Summit branded heads are probably the cheapest and come assembled with valves and springs.

 

[paulrowe]

What is your intended use for the truck. Are you just driving it around or will you be towing/ off roading some times?

 

[caleb chapdelaine]

As you price things out, look into the Edelbrock performance packages. They include the heads, intake, and cam, etc; all matched to work together. Different power levels available, takes the guesswork out of matching parts.

For just heads, Summit branded heads are probably the cheapest and come assembled with valves and springs.

^^ thank you I’ll look into that!

 

[caleb chapdelaine]

What is your intended use for the truck. Are you just driving it around or will you be towing/ off roading some times?

Daily driving and off-roading, looking for a good mix in between. I have 3.73 gears, with 35 inch tires

 

[paulrowe]

The Edelbrock top end kits are a good option or you could piece together your own parts. COMP Cams makes a series of cams called Xtreme 4x4 that I really like. Getting cylinder heads with a larger/ modern combustion chamber will let you run pump gas if you just re-use your stock bottom end. I like iron heads for a daily driver but aluminum will work fine too and help with detonation. Keep the runner volume smallish. No bigger than 180cc with a 72cc combustion chamber to keep compression in check. Heads to look into would be DART, Edelbrock or WORLD or Vortecs of some sort, for good American made quality. Summit sells a nice DART heads rebranded in there name. A dual plane intake manifold like an Edelbrock Performer or equivalent. I always call the cam and cylinder head maker to let them know my intended use in case they can offer a better recommendation. Using a good set of headers also. Hooker make a nice set for our trucks. Stick to these basic things and you'll build a fuel efficient engine with about 300hp and around 350 to 375 ft/lbs of torque. It will be nice in all applications. Those are my recomendations and others will have different opinions. But that formula has helped me build nice solid truck engines. Now if your going racing obviously everything changes.

 

[caleb chapdelaine]

The Edelbrock top end kits are a good option or you could piece together your own parts. COMP Cams makes a series of cams called Xtreme 4x4 that I really like. Getting cylinder heads with a larger/ modern combustion chamber will let you run pump gas if you just re-use your stock bottom end. I like iron heads for a daily driver but aluminum will work fine too and help with detonation. Keep the runner volume smallish. No bigger than 180cc with a 72cc combustion chamber to keep compression in check. Heads to look into would be DART, Edelbrock or WORLD or Vortecs of some sort, for good American made quality. Summit sells a nice DART heads rebranded in there name. A dual plane intake manifold like an Edelbrock Performer or equivalent. I always call the cam and cylinder head maker to let them know my intended use in case they can offer a better recommendation. Using a good set of headers also. Hooker make a nice set for our trucks. Stick to these basic things and you'll build a fuel efficient engine with about 300hp and around 350 to 375 ft/lbs of torque. It will be nice in all applications. Those are my recomendations and others will have different opinions. But that formula has helped me build nice solid truck engines. Now if your going racing obviously everything changes.

Thank you I appreciate it

 

[hoagster]

Caleb before you jump in with all those new parts make sure it doesn't need to be pass emissions test. I think your ok with a 74! Otherwise if you need anything! I removed a whole engine with all the mounts etc, etc, complete long block 350. it's just sitting in the barn. And I'm north of you outside of Redding.

 

[86SquaredUp]

Summit makes a decent cast iron double hump copy (not USA made tho), but you'll have to work on them to get them to flow really well. Vortec heads will out-flow them right off of the bat.

Some good Vortec heads with the stock chamber volume and some flat top pistons should have you in the 9:1(+) compression ratio range.

Lunati "Barebones" cams make pretty good torque and are pretty cheap.

Is it going the be a roller engine?

Dont discount the value of good quality machine work. Alot of HP and torque can be found by a good machinist.

 

[Rusty Nail]

I offer a different perspective.
Hook us up Short!

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I disagree almost 100% and believe edelbrock is slooooowwww. And Overrated. And Uncool. And Wanna-be ******** for 2nd place trendys and nerds.
Plus it's slow.

Top end kitz are cookie cutter bullcrap.
Lame AF.
Who cares you have a credit card?
Speaking of lame..
edelbroke spends tons on advertising to trick noobs just.like.you. into buying that dead guy's name cuz thats all that junk is.
A lame-assed HP sticker!

Speaking about horsepower stickers...
Summit is WAY < Jeg's. They are ALSO forced to spend mega advertising dollars in scam.

Think about it.. its all the same scam. Buy parts.

I also would never in one million years consider vortex anything .
Why?
Scam. Buy parts.

If I need to explain the buy parts vortex heads scam, I will.
That is traitorous to Squarebodies everywhere!

Vortex guys are turncoats that buy into the new parts scam..
Fact, not opinion.

Turn.coats.
Look it up.
Tell me im wrong.

Build it, don't buy it!
You may be happier.



If you want to be cool, you will pick a good 4x4 cam like the Competition Cams # 268H and rebuild the good factory sbc heads. Get turned onto GM #113 or #416. There is one other acceptable head number but it escapes me ATM. - 083.
*Centerbolt heads have no heat passages.

Ported #113s easily match the #706 flow. Dont be fooled into spending that money, it's a waste and WILL cause headache.
Moar facts.
Buy moar parts.


I could also endorse World Products Torquer/ Torquer SR, but meh, i'm not. Add a Holley carb to go fast, and vintage, period correct intake manifold like Holley 300-36 or 38 similar, with I/O HPC coated headers like Flowtech 1.5s...that's pretty much the bees knees of cool to certain guys like myself. Dont buy an unremarkable, vanilla preformer...

For real , coat the headers.

But then again...i'm not a kid and don't have anything to prove to anybody. Dont give a **** if the next guys think they make more/better power than me because of what ******** they read on the internet - they arent cool, dont make better power than me BUT! They DID spend more money. Too bad you cant buy experience huh?
Two,three, maybe even four times more.
No lie.
Cant buy cool.
These are the facts, man. I suggest to buy used parts if you must.



I don't know you but you do..

Not here to make friends either, can't you tell?

Whatever, it's LENT and im coming down.

Dilligaf?

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I condone buying machine work...not parts...
I read your post. It says budget build and wonder why some guys suggest $1000 cylinder head swaps!? Benedict Arnolds.

I maintain $1000 for 25 horsepower is a **** deal and guys here still do it everyday.
can't reform em!
Strange Ways..they'll never change

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You can make a TON more power than 25 horse for $1000 but whatever.
'Merica

You must choose.

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Fancy new parts didnt serve that guy very well..there is no difference here.

Zero.

http://enginereplacementokc.com/engine-machining/2817852
I supposed to mince words you say?
No good at it either way
left field I play
- just the other day!

Can't reform em.

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