1227747 ECM

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RanchWelder

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Looking for an OEM ECM for my Rig...
Please PM me with what you might be able to part with...
Listed a few things in the For Sale threads... hit me up if we can swap for parts you need...
 

AyWoSch Motors

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@RanchWelder
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This the right one?
 

RanchWelder

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That looks correct. The ECM looks OEM, and I'm verifying the chip...
I'm having trouble with the broadcast code though...
Can you tell me the exact specs for the original engine and transmission please?
I'll reach out to my tuner and verify he can burn that chip and make it work for my app...

May I ask you to include the pig tails, cut 4-6 inches from the ECM, please? I could use the engine harness and under dash harness if you have ripped them out, if not and it would suck to pull them, may I request the 2 connectors?

Just sent the email... TBIChips usually gets back to me within a few days...
It looks like you are getting a good used quadrajet...

The only small parts I'm having trouble finding are the 3 screws and pressure washers for the electric choke... and the center torx screw/angle lever for the inside of the choke 3 legged housing...

5 screws and a lever. The electric choke module is there and the housing and all the levers and rods behind the housing...
I'm digging through every container of small bits and these few pieces elude me... I Hope that will be OK and you can just grab them from another Q Jet...

I'm 99% certain the gentleman flashing these chips uses an ultra violet light to clear them and adds his own flash... soon as he confirms he can melt the program on your's I'll mail your carb out.

I'll clean up the carb, knock the dust off, and get it packed up for shipping ASAP... There is not one speck of grease or signs of backfire on the carb.
It is very clean already... Looks like it came off some Great Grandpa's garage queen...

Really appreciate your time...
 

gmbellew

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That looks correct. The ECM looks OEM, and I'm verifying the chip...
I'm having trouble with the broadcast code though...
Can you tell me the exact specs for the original engine and transmission please?
I'll reach out to my tuner and verify he can burn that chip and make it work for my app...

May I ask you to include the pig tails, cut 4-6 inches from the ECM, please? I could use the engine harness and under dash harness if you have ripped them out, if not and it would suck to pull them, may I request the 2 connectors?

Just sent the email... TBIChips usually gets back to me within a few days...
It looks like you are getting a good used quadrajet...

The only small parts I'm having trouble finding are the 3 screws and pressure washers for the electric choke... and the center torx screw/angle lever for the inside of the choke 3 legged housing...

5 screws and a lever. The electric choke module is there and the housing and all the levers and rods behind the housing...
I'm digging through every container of small bits and these few pieces elude me... I Hope that will be OK and you can just grab them from another Q Jet...

I'm 99% certain the gentleman flashing these chips uses an ultra violet light to clear them and adds his own flash... soon as he confirms he can melt the program on your's I'll mail your carb out.

I'll clean up the carb, knock the dust off, and get it packed up for shipping ASAP... There is not one speck of grease or signs of backfire on the carb.
It is very clean already... Looks like it came off some Great Grandpa's garage queen...

Really appreciate your time...
I am working with TBICHIPS right now on my truck. pretty sure he clears the PROM with UV and rewrites it with whatever you need.
 

AyWoSch Motors

The Parts Guy
Joined
Nov 6, 2020
Posts
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Location
New Mexico
First Name
Ayden
Truck Year
1986
Truck Model
K1500 Sierra
Engine Size
350ci V8
That looks correct. The ECM looks OEM, and I'm verifying the chip...
I'm having trouble with the broadcast code though...
Can you tell me the exact specs for the original engine and transmission please?
I'll reach out to my tuner and verify he can burn that chip and make it work for my app...

May I ask you to include the pig tails, cut 4-6 inches from the ECM, please? I could use the engine harness and under dash harness if you have ripped them out, if not and it would suck to pull them, may I request the 2 connectors?

Just sent the email... TBIChips usually gets back to me within a few days...
It looks like you are getting a good used quadrajet...

The only small parts I'm having trouble finding are the 3 screws and pressure washers for the electric choke... and the center torx screw/angle lever for the inside of the choke 3 legged housing...

5 screws and a lever. The electric choke module is there and the housing and all the levers and rods behind the housing...
I'm digging through every container of small bits and these few pieces elude me... I Hope that will be OK and you can just grab them from another Q Jet...

I'm 99% certain the gentleman flashing these chips uses an ultra violet light to clear them and adds his own flash... soon as he confirms he can melt the program on your's I'll mail your carb out.

I'll clean up the carb, knock the dust off, and get it packed up for shipping ASAP... There is not one speck of grease or signs of backfire on the carb.
It is very clean already... Looks like it came off some Great Grandpa's garage queen...

Really appreciate your time...
Its out of a 1987 Chevrolet Custom Deluxe V20. TBI 5.7l 350, SM465 4 speed manual, New Process 205 transfer cases, 14bolt semi float.

No, i didnt remove the harness, its still in place, but its carburetored now, so most of the harness is unused and hanging there. I could cut off pigtails for engine side harness ends, such as injectors, TPS, pressure sensor, etc.

If pulling the ECM and ECMb fuses cuts all power to the ECM plugs, without effecting other things in the system, i will do that. But if doing that makes other things not work, then i wont.

At this moment in time, headights, tailights, gauges, interor lights, heater and wipers, dont work anyway, so i may be into a rewire anyway, and i fianly got it running, but it runs like crap now, and it started blowing white smoke like a train, so it looks like im either going to have to tear the engine apart again, or swap it. This thing is turning into a basket case, getting a bit discouraged on it. If you really want the harness, it might be a possibility, but itll take time.
 

RanchWelder

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su cks. Some idiot put 305 cast iron manifold, which was warped on my new engine. When I removed the exhaust amni bolts the rear bolts on the #7 cylinder were lose and they were bent in trying to fracture the manifold. Then the head bolts had been loosened, back there as well...
Blew my head gasket with lil' over 3900 miles on a brand new Jasper 355HO. When I tore it down, I was pleasantly surprised to find flat top forged pistons and a GM Performance Crankshaft.

I have the stock GM Performance oil pump, which is the 3900 mile unit and probably a new set of Mahle .018" stock head gaskets, laying around, if they will help out any. I highly recommend using the non-stretch ARP head bolts...

Problem is those heads need to be decked and checked for cracks first...
Hopefully your valve stem guides are good and not cracked...
I have 2 sets of 87 heads, the one's which blew the gasket are probably good, because I stopped as soon as the smoke started, in less than 100 feet and shut the engine down before anything could have warped/overheated.

...And an older set which were removed as good but were left out in the yard. They just need a sanding/cleaning.
They had heat tabs on them and I pulled them off not realizing what they were, so they did not overheat either.
The temp gauge went over 212 on the first set, but not for more than 10 seconds.
My radiator is still going strong... either set of stock 87' heads are probably good.
Probably $85 to ship a pair UPS ground though...

I'm not in a hurry for the harness. The ECU is required ASAP.
If Brian cannot burn the chip I'll see if he'll trade it for one he can burn.
My transmission is not shifting into 4th gear on the 700R4 this evening, so my life is su c kiung too.

I wrote a letter to my transmission builder asking for help.
He sounded pissed off the first call I made however he responded twice with instructions... changing the filter and swapping the fluid only lasted 4 - 10 mile trips to town at 60mph and now it's refusing to go into 4th gear...

Tell me what to put into the box... I'll do what I can to help you out.
 

AyWoSch Motors

The Parts Guy
Joined
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Location
New Mexico
First Name
Ayden
Truck Year
1986
Truck Model
K1500 Sierra
Engine Size
350ci V8
su cks. Some idiot put 305 cast iron manifold, which was warped on my new engine. When I removed the exhaust amni bolts the rear bolts on the #7 cylinder were lose and they were bent in trying to fracture the manifold. Then the head bolts had been loosened, back there as well...
Blew my head gasket with lil' over 3900 miles on a brand new Jasper 355HO. When I tore it down, I was pleasantly surprised to find flat top forged pistons and a GM Performance Crankshaft.

I have the stock GM Performance oil pump, which is the 3900 mile unit and probably a new set of Mahle .018" stock head gaskets, laying around, if they will help out any. I highly recommend using the non-stretch ARP head bolts...

Problem is those heads need to be decked and checked for cracks first...
Hopefully your valve stem guides are good and not cracked...
I have 2 sets of 87 heads, the one's which blew the gasket are probably good, because I stopped as soon as the smoke started, in less than 100 feet and shut the engine down before anything could have warped/overheated.

...And an older set which were removed as good but were left out in the yard. They just need a sanding/cleaning.
They had heat tabs on them and I pulled them off not realizing what they were, so they did not overheat either.
The temp gauge went over 212 on the first set, but not for more than 10 seconds.
My radiator is still going strong... either set of stock 87' heads are probably good.
Probably $85 to ship a pair UPS ground though...

I'm not in a hurry for the harness. The ECU is required ASAP.
If Brian cannot burn the chip I'll see if he'll trade it for one he can burn.
My transmission is not shifting into 4th gear on the 700R4 this evening, so my life is su c kiung too.

I wrote a letter to my transmission builder asking for help.
He sounded pissed off the first call I made however he responded twice with instructions... changing the filter and swapping the fluid only lasted 4 - 10 mile trips to town at 60mph and now it's refusing to go into 4th gear...

Tell me what to put into the box... I'll do what I can to help you out.
Thank you very much. I suspect its not head gasket, but the intake manifold. I never touched the heads, and when it did run before, it never smoked. I swapped the intakes, from a TBI style, to a 4bbl carbuarted style. Its been modified, so maybe it warped.i lathered it with RTV when putting it on, but seems like the crossover, between the water port and the intake runner are leaking, because its breathing the coolant, but its not getting into the oil yet. I may end up swaping the heads anyway, but for a pre 87, just so i can bolt a 4bbl on without modifying it.
I dont know yet

Let me know on the ECM, and ill throw it in a flat rate box and get it sent out.
 

RanchWelder

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Engine Size
355ci
Yes please, send me the ECM.

What is your email address, so we can swap shipping details?
I don't want my address or cell phone number here on this server.
I'll send you an email from my encrypted server ProtonMail ASAP.
If you sign up for a free email address at Protonmail, we can exchange certificates and our email conversations will be encrypted and secure.
I would appreciate it if you please get an email account, very much. I have been stalked and prefer my info remain extremely private.
Then you know the only person with your new email account is me and vice versa, or those who you buy and sell parts from this site... rather than using the one for your account logins, such as banking... etc... ProtonMail blocks email attachments, formatting and links, until you approve them. It has an extreme security server for malware detection. I do not use a VPN in the USA, but if you pay a monthly fee they sell them and I've heard from US resident's overseas it is worth it and works well for them.

When you email me for the first time, (***and the account systems settings are set to request a certificate***) you'll see a red box asking if you want to install the signed certificate attached to my first email. That's it. from then on, between each other, we are highly encrypted and private.
The IRS will be stalking these sites with Bots sooner or later, looking for taxable revenue. If you sign on here at 3am there are hundreds of bots online searching the site all morning long... maybe 2-3 guys from Australia and hundreds of Bots.

Regarding the engine...
Seen the manifolds warp from overheating. Especially the affordable ones from Jegs and Summit...
Edelbrock has a huge chunk of aluminum cast diagonally under the rear flanges which stops the warping. The 7116 square bore to Vortec head pattern I used is over $300.00 now. It flows for days.

I used special Vortec head gaskets with steel plates and rubber seals from Felpro: MS98000T.
It took a lot of reading before I found how well they work and located them at Summit. They are $60.00 and include seals & stuff for the plastic plenum and a set of valve cover gaskets, o-rings... etc... which you may never use...
The rest of the kit is on the shelf, useless.
The steel gaskets with black rubber seals are the only thing which will seal my Edlebrock properly.
It's the only way to buy them, since Vic Heinz stopped selling the steel version separately, when Mahle bought them out.

If you buy the $39.00 Mahle Vortec intake set, instead of the $24.00 set, they send you the exact same plastic gaskets.
...and they suck and melt at the number 7-8 intake holes, eventually.
Mahle knows the picture is wrong... ask me how I know... when I contacted the sales rep for Mahle USA, she blew it off.
Says Alabama did not know why the pictures showed steel and shipped plastic. No offer for refund or anything.

The only place I used The Right Stuff was at the China walls. No leak for now...
I also made certain there was zero debrie in the holes for the intake. Sometimes old sealant or dirt will stop the bolts from bottoming out.
The stock GM Vortec Manifold bolts are designed with an extra nub of steel on the bottom to locate them at torque when they hit the deep tap threaded bottom. They may not look as cool but they work the best, so you avoid uneven torque and warping of the flanges.
I'm not Positive they bottom out with the rubber seals at torque though. They may only bottom with the stock paper gaskets, which is why they leak. At least you cannot go too deep with the GM hardware... I recall running a bottoming tap through everything.

Let me know when you get a new email account and I'll contact you with shipping details?
OK?
 

AyWoSch Motors

The Parts Guy
Joined
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Posts
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Reaction score
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Location
New Mexico
First Name
Ayden
Truck Year
1986
Truck Model
K1500 Sierra
Engine Size
350ci V8
Ill PM you..

The intake i used on mine was a stock pre 87 cast iron, spread bore, 4bbl. Stock chevy equipment.
And the blot pattern layout for a 87-95 tbi heads is the same as the 55-86 small block, except the 2 middle bolts sit a different angle, i made myself a wedge washer to adapt it. Seemed to work okay, but maybe not.
 

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