10si and the idiot light always on

[CmuCmu]

Hi, hope you're doing well. I recently rebuilt my alternator, a 10si. The original issue was that it was pushing 17 volts, so while replacing the regulator, I replaced the brushes, tridiode, diode carrier also. Checked bearings and winding. Confirmed it was only the regulator not working, but took the chance to replace those parts while we're at it.
So, reinstalled it, and it's working, but the idiot light is always on. With the previous regulator it was always off (literally thought that lightbulb was burnt or something).
What could it be? The alternator is working as intended with the proper voltage (13.4 to 15).

 

[Ricko1966]

Hi, hope you're doing well. I recently rebuilt my alternator, a 10si. The original issue was that it was pushing 17 volts, so while replacing the regulator, I replaced the brushes, tridiode, diode carrier also. Checked bearings and winding. Confirmed it was only the regulator not working, but took the chance to replace those parts while we're at it.
So, reinstalled it, and it's working, but the idiot light is always on. With the previous regulator it was always off (literally thought that lightbulb was burnt or something).
What could it be? The alternator is working as intended with the proper voltage (13.4 to 15).

What are the chances you got terminal 1 and terminal 2 flipped.

 

[CmuCmu]

What are the chances you got terminal 1 and terminal 2 flipped.

None, used the original plug as it was. Maybe? It could be backwards. Would it damage the regulator if I flipped the plug to test?

 

[Ricko1966]

None, used the original plug as it was. Maybe? It could be backwards. Would it damage the regulator if I flipped the plug to test?

No need look up wiring schematic for 10s1 1 wire goes to never mind I'll get the info and post it for you.

 

[CmuCmu]

No need look up wiring schematic for 10s1 1 wire goes to never mind I'll get the info and post it for you.

I used this as a guide

You must be registered for see images attach

 

[Ricko1966]

Terminal 1 is the ground for the dash light. Unplug the socket,turn the key to run,with a piece of wire ground Terminal 1 on the socket end,the light should come on. Remove the ground,the light should go off. Take a test light and a jumper wire. Still unplugged at the alternator jumper term 2 to the B+ Terminal hook your test light to the battery positive lead,key on engine off touch term 1 with your test light light should light, start the truck,touch terminal 1 again light should be out. If this does not test out,then you have an internal problem with the alternator,try putting the old diode trio back in. I suspect it's the problem.

 

[CmuCmu]

Terminal 1 is the ground for the dash light. Unplug the socket,turn the key to run with a piece of wire ground Terminal 1 on the socket end,the light should come on. Remove the ground,the light should go off. Take a test light and a jumper wire. Still unplugged at the alternator jumper term 2 to the B+ Terminal hook your test light to the battery positive lead,key on engine off touch term 1 with your test light light should light, start the truck,touch terminal 1 again light should be out. If this does not test out,then you have an internal problem with the alternator,try putting the old diode trio back in. I suspect it's the problem.

Thank you very much; I did test the tridiode using the manual indications (just in case, since electrical parts sold here have no guarantee) before installing it.

You must be registered for see images attach

With the ohmmeter negative on A and positive on B, it read from 300 to 400 on all 3; but negative on B and positive on A it read 1 on all 3.

 

[Ricko1966]

Test like I said,post results

 

[CmuCmu]

Terminal 1 is the ground for the dash light. Unplug the socket,turn the key to run with a piece of wire ground Terminal 1 on the socket end,the light should come on. Remove the ground,the light should go off. Take a test light and a jumper wire. Still unplugged at the alternator jumper term 2 to the B+ Terminal hook your test light to the battery positive lead,key on engine off touch term 1 with your test light light should light, start the truck,touch terminal 1 again light should be out. If this does not test out,then you have an internal problem with the alternator,try putting the old diode trio back in. I suspect it's the problem.

Alright, step by step:
Ground on socket: Light on
Removed ground: Light off
T2 to B+, testing T1: Light on (and same volts as battery)
With engine on: Light on

 

[CmuCmu]

Hey, I have a new symptom, the idiot light flickered a little when throttling, still on thought - tried this again and it flickered when around 14.2 volts

 

[Ricko1966]

Alright, step by step:
Ground on socket: Light on
Removed ground: Light off
T2 to B+, testing T1: Light on (and same volts as battery)
With engine on: Light on

If you have a jumper from term 2 to b+ and
the test light is on ,while connected to battery,and term 1 with the engine running. Your alternator is not functioning correctly. The test light should go out with the engine running. I'd put the old diode trio in and check again. If no change, I'd put my old regulator back in and see if my light went out. If my light went out with the old regulator but I had an overcharging condition I would assume my new regulator was bad.

 

[CmuCmu]

If you have a jumper from term 2 to b+ and
the test light is on ,while connected to battery,and term 1 with the engine running. Your alternator is not functioning correctly. The test light should go out with the engine running. I'd put the old diode trio in and check again. If no change, I'd put my old regulator back in and see if my light went out. If my light went out with the old regulator but I had an overcharging condition I would assume my new regulator was bad.

Alright, I'll get to the tridiode tomorrow and post results, glad I kept the old one since it didn't have any issues during testing; however, if I were to use the truck, what could happen if this issue isn't corrected?

 

[Radiohead]

.

 

[CmuCmu]

Alright, I'll get to the tridiode tomorrow and post results, glad I kept the old one since it didn't have any issues during testing; however, if I were to use the truck, what could happen if this issue isn't corrected?

If you have a jumper from term 2 to b+ and
the test light is on ,while connected to battery,and term 1 with the engine running. Your alternator is not functioning correctly. The test light should go out with the engine running. I'd put the old diode trio in and check again. If no change, I'd put my old regulator back in and see if my light went out. If my light went out with the old regulator but I had an overcharging condition I would assume my new regulator was bad.

Alright, finally had a chance to do the triode today, swapped it for the old one, and now it doesn't send anything. It's like the alternator is disconnected. What can I do now?

 

[Ricko1966]

Too busy and frazzled with my own sh!t to even think right now. Unfreaking believable problems today. Sorry,when things calm down I'll put some thought into this.