10 Bolt rear recently started leaking

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87ChevyR10

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Noticed recently some wet spots underneath the rear diff. From what I can tell, it appears to be leaking from where the driveshaft slides in and from the rear cover.

What's involved in fixing the leaks? U-joints are getting replaced next weekend, I hope. So, that'll be the time to fix the leak, if I can.

Thanks!
 

87scotty

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Pretty easy job should be a right up or you tube but take off u joint caps count the threads sticking past nut! Then take it off, pull it all off pop seal out put new seal in when putting nut back on I always go a lil past where the nut was 1/4 turn or so just to snug everything g up nicely!
 

87ChevyR10

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Pretty easy job should be a right up or you tube but take off u joint caps count the threads sticking past nut! Then take it off, pull it all off pop seal out put new seal in when putting nut back on I always go a lil past where the nut was 1/4 turn or so just to snug everything g up nicely!

Sounds easy enough. I haven't found stand alone seals that aren't part of a kit, though. Would be nice to replace pumpkin cap with a new gasket, too. Unless I can use a sealant. I think hardest part will be getting the bolts to loosen up.

EDIT: Found the seal, I think. It's the rear pinion seal I need, right? I also found rear cap gaskets. Any advice for getting those 10 bolts out?
 
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crazy4offroad

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Grab on to the driveshaft where it meets the pinion and try to shake it around. If the pinion seems loose you'll have to remove the nut, clean/dry the threads and apply a liberal amount of red thread locker and give it time to cure. You can also for extra insurance hit the pinion nut with a cold chisel on the outer rim to make an indentation to help lock it on as well. If oil is leaking at the pinion you may as well replace the seal before trying to tighten the nut. Once you get around to it just be sure to not over-tighten it, only light rotational resistance is required to preload the pinion bearings.
 

87scotty

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I just use grey rtv on pumpkins works good looks cool with a lil silver lining lol and 10 bolts 6 point socket with ratchet or impact
 

87ChevyR10

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Thanks all. I think I am lined up to get this done next weekend if it doesn't rain. I watched a video by 1aauto.com about this very topic. Looks like straight forward work.

While I've got that end apart, is there anything I should replace? The guy in the video mentioned something about a pinion sleeve. Should that be replaced as well?

Thanks!
 

crazy4offroad

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The pinion crush sleeve is supposed to be replaced if you are removing the pinion yoke for anything. Bad thing is, it is a crush sleeve, so once you put the new one in it has to be crushed to set pinion bearing preload. You'll have to put a pipe wrench on the pinion and tighten the pinion nut with a strong impact wrench. My 450 ft/lb impact can do it but it takes forever, like 1/64th of a turn after each blast. You can take the old crush sleeve out and smack it a few times with a hammer on something like a vise horn to stretch it back out slightly and reuse the old one. It will have a lot less distance to be crushed than a new one if you do it that way.
 

87ChevyR10

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So, will I need an impact wrench to remove and reinstall pinion nut? I hope not.

Nevermind. I put 2 and 2 together. Need the impact wrench for the crush sleeve.
 
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87ChevyR10

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Could someone double check the u joints. I need to know if they are correct before I go ordering the supplies. Thx.
 

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