There's one just like it sitting in a wrecking yard here. '68 Suburban, same color, and although a lot of parts are stripped it's pretty solid. And it's a three door, so fairly rare. I'm trying to decide if I have one more rebuild in me...
Thanks, that would be helpful. I'd be curious anyways. What makes a Suburban capable of carrying a 40 gallon tank anyways? I suppose more length behind the axle than a blazer. If you can get a measurement I'd like to know.
Yup, and I've already considered the sledge hammer approach. Shade tree mechanics is sometimes the best solution dollar and time-wise...
But I'm putting it out there to see if anyone that's done the relocation has any better ideas.
You have a Suburban? How is your bracket mounted to make room...
Maybe I missed it... but has anyone got any ideas about how to deal with the rear brake line bracket? Do you relocate it somehow? Seems like it would be in the way even on a long bed.
Isn't it possible to cut down an eight foot bed floor to use it as a six? Seems odd to me that a company would supply one because it is more popular but leave the rest hanging just for the lack of a few inches of sheet metal.
If the truck is too tall you can flatten the tires or even take the wheels off to take the height out.
My two cents, don't go radical with roller cam or timing gears or any of that kind of high dollar low return kind of thing. The most bang for the buck is going to be an RV cam and a set of...
Before, fresh from the wrecking yard where it deteriorated for 21 years.
And seven years later, just before I hung the bumpers. 390 with a 427 crank. I added 20 inch wheels after this pic was taken.
Anybody have any newer information on floor pans? Or replacement metal like fenders, bed sides, or corners? Is it worth reviving this thread?
I need some new floor pans for a '78 so wondering where to get them.
I think I finally located the proper pump and ordered it from Jegs. The part number is A7023.
The pump I ordered, based on the image they publish with the part number, has a return line that goes underneath the pump and toward the front, a press on pulley, the right fitting for the pressure...
Have you tried flipping the switch to use the left tank? Could you have some crossed wires at the fuel selector switch? (Are you talking about the switch on the dash or the valve under the truck?)
Put some gas in the left tank and see what happens. The switching system to change tanks has...
Turned out that when they crossed the number it was the one they listed already, which is wrong. So I called O'Reilly and they list the wrong pump too, and then I stooped to calling (shudder) Autozone... after looking for the pump on their site and finding one with the same part number (7023N)...
LOL... well I appreciate your lack of confidence in my skill set.
And so far nobody has answered the question if all the drive shafts are the same length regardless of transmission.
I think you may have something Paul. It's clocked correctly and has the right return line, a press on shaft, and two holes in the back. I'm going to NAPA again tomorrow and see if they can cross the number.
Appreciate the response but any kind of driveshaft shop is over a hundred miles away. Both shafts are fully collapsed and measure the same (29 1/2) u-joint to u-joint.
Is there a difference between the shafts used for a 350 and 400 trans? Some of the listings I'm finding use the u-joint to...
What is the part number on your NAPA pump? I've been looking for one like that at NAPA and they haven't been able to find it. The return line and reservoir attachments are just what I need. My truck is a 78 and I think I would also have to reclock the pump but please let me know what the part...
I am having a time finding the correct power steering pump as a rebuild. Classic Industries has it as a new pump for almost $200. Their number is NP7023... which NAPA can't convert to any part number for anything they carry.
Amazon and Rockauto don't list the right one either. I guess I'll try...
I have a '78 K20 that has a lot of slop in the front drive shaft. It looks like it's been repaired on the farm and really needs to be replaced. I went to the local wrecking yard and they sold me one that looks very similar for $45, and I'd like to know if there are any concerns with replacing...
Well rather than starting a new thread I'll scab onto this one. It appears the OP never got their answer and it's been a while so I doubt they will mind.
I have a '78 K20 that has a lot of slop in the front drive shaft. It looks like it's been repaired on the farm and really needs to be...