Yes. I have that same block number. 4 bolt main 350. I raced with a guy that ran those heads and his car was pretty strong. If you don't know what's been done to them. I would give them a try. You can always do a head swap with the motor installed if they don't work out. Oh yeah. You need a...
I ran a 355 several years with the no bolt hole camel hump heads. I used a 92 chevy alternator and made brackets for the back and top of the alternator . I used a factory bracket off of the waterpump for the front lower bracket.
I went back to tbi after numerous hours of jetting,drilling,changing metering blocks, power valves, etc. While I made it a lot better, it's hard to make a 1250 dominator completely streetable.
If both engines have the 2 piece rear main seals, the flex plates should interchange. Lay one on top of the other to double check. I think they both should have 153 teeth. They need to be the same for starter to work. New flexplates aren't very expensive and would be another option.
You will probably need self-aligning rockers with those heahs. Comp should have them. 1.52 will work. There is a process for checking valve geometry on comps web site. The reason I mention this is because you mentioned having non standard pushrods.
Standing in front of the truck, it should be the right line. The larger of the two. Look at your filter and follow the line from it. Mine is a 92 but I think yours is the same. Your filter is on the drivers side (left) frame. Correct?
Yes, fuel enters log, goes past carb inlets, through by-pass regulator, and then returns to tank. Ran it that way for 13yrs. It was installed per instructions. There is also a fuel pressure guage on the reguator. I ran it at 6lbs for the carb.
Do those rockers have a name on them? Could have been adjusted to tight. Those solid lifters don't give any. That's a pretty large lift for a small block. Need to have good components. I personally use compitition cam valve train components. That push rod is probably Ok seeing where the rocker...
Yes, leave all wiring as it is to the fuel pump circuit. I installed by-pass regulator and fuel log on a duel line holley.
the bottom line on the reguator is the return.
I would suspect a bent or broken pushrod also. That setup needs one piece pushrods if it hasn't already got them. Worse case would be the cam lobe is wore down. Remove the rocker and check the pushrod. I had a bbc that had a pushrod come out from under the rocker and bent and went under the...
Not hard to do a carb swap. Intake, carb, by-pass fuel regulator, and some fuel line mods. If you are doing a performance rebuild, I would do the carb or aftermarket tbi.
I have a 92 and it's got an elec speedometer so I need an adapter for mine. If you're going to elec speedometer, you will probably need one to. I've found a few at summit but not sure which one I need. You can change out the speedo gears and install a reluctor wheel and sensor on some...
I just installed a 3 row, all welded, all aluminum, KKS brand I found on ebay for 259.00. It has oil and tranny cooler provisions. They have some for about another 100 that have elec fans and shrouds. The radiator looks well built.
Did you get a cam kit with new springs? With any performance oriented engine I've had, I always eliminate the vacuum advance and run light springs. Initial at 14 to 16 and total around 35. All in by 2500 to 3000. Fuel economy will suffer without advance but that is expected with performance...