I replaced all the smaller factory gauges in mine with some basic 2" oil, volt, temp, and tach gauges. Just opened up the factory holes and taped over the printed circuit in the area so it didn't short out. Good enough for my daily driver
Whenever I hear people talking about 3" exhaust, I think back to my high school days when you had to pay extra to upgrade to the big 2" exhaust. Looks great. Reminds me that I haven't done anything on my 70 for a few weeks.
Pegged past full means an open circuit. Look for a disconnected, broken, etc wire. You may be able to see the connection on the tank while installed at the bed gap.
Just remembering, I think the headlight circuit doesn't work like a traditional circuit. Something like it's the ground side that is switched , so if you were trying to use a different harness, it's tough to integrate the two. Could be way off, so hopefully those more knowledgeable will chime in.
If it's an aftermarket harness, I would guess that if you have the main power input hooked up to the new fusebox, a good ground, and a complete circuit with fuse, that circuit should work. If it's a factory harness, check the fusible links as they feed most of the circuits.
If you can't see any active leaks, you may have a problem with the master cylinder. Either defective or needs bleeding. Did they ever work for you or just go out? Is it a project you just got and had no brakes?
Hate to state the obvious, but you will probably just have to start tracing wires to.see where they go. You will probably find one of the added wires will go to the HEI, since it wouldn't have that provision on a diesel.
My 83 also was a diesel to gas conversion. Mine was such a mess, I...
The twist-in bulb holders are replaceable. You can also take a pencil eraser and gently clean the area they contact the printed circuit. Also, if you are trying to replace them with led bulbs, be careful. They don't always work and don't mix well with standard bulbs.
Gauge stuck at 9 o'clock means you have an open circuit, so something isn't connected/broken wire/etc.
I fought mine for a while before finding it was a bad dash selector switch.
Another option is to turn it over until the timing mark is at tdc. Pull the cap and the rotor should point to either #1 or 180 degrees off. If not, you are off.
Pull the cylinder 1 plug, put your thumb over the hole and bump it over until the compression bumps your thumb off. Should be #1 coming up on the compression stroke. Look at your timing mark and see if it is close to tdc. If you are off a terminal on the cap, that would put the mark 45...
For those who have fought the slide hammer for pulling dents with a stud welder not gripping the pins, especially the garbage one that comes with the Harbor Freight kit. I took a 1/2"drill chuck and adapted it to the slide hammer. Slide it over the pin, grip the outside of the drill chuck...
No help on the internals, but since they are basically bulletproof and not rare, I would just look for a cheap used one. But good for you for using what you have.
Make sure your idle mixture screws are out about 1.5 turns each, not run all the way in.
With the engine off, cycle the throttle linkage a couple times. You should see a constant stream of gas out the accelerator pump nozzles.
If no gas is coming out the squirter, pull the fuel line, put it...
The plastic pins are put in at the factory to hold length until a collision, where the impact will push the shaft into itself, instead of jamming a steel steering shaft through your chest. I would take a small drill bit to the pins first, then a little localized heat should allow it to collapse.
You can heat them, drill them, or just hit it hard. I was able to install mine by lining it up just right and prying it in. Make sure you got the right rag joint too. There are 2 different spline counts.