This one got my attention yesterday, but you can never be sure till you actually see them.
Vehicle titles can be a big problem in KY also.
Don’t really have a place for it right now any way though.
Way back we ran short track, 1/4 & 3/8 mile street stock cars.
A Ford 9” was the perffered rearend. We’d weld a tall 1” vent about half way on the left side axle tube, then put a gallon of gear oil in it… this insured that the carrier bearings & ring/pinion gear stayed lubed throughout the race.
Those rods mount to plates behind the motor mounts and then to a heavy cast inspection cover on a 400TH transmission with the proper mounting holes.
This pic shows the trans & cover but not the rods.
I absolutely love new trucks.
I’m a small guy, I get behind the wheel of my F-350 dually that’s 23’ long, almost 8’ wide, has 475hp, 10 speeds with over a 1000 ft lbs of torque and suddenly I’m Jack Reacher. :)
The wheel has been sand blasted so just a wipe off with some cleaner will be fine before painting..
If you’ve got a can of the correct color to match your other wheels that’s plenty to paint the spare wheel.
I would use some spray primer first.
I don’t know the particular years but some 4x4 trucks got 1/4” plates between the clam shells and the engine, they supplied a mounting point for transmission braces. These plates can affect the mount and engine alignment.
Ohms Law came into play…
The lights were left on so when the battery voltage dropped the amperage suppling the headlight circuit started to climb…
Now what exactly this affected is in question, maybe some wiring got hot and burned together somewhere?
From what I understand the external calibration box is required to achieve the proper ratio between the transfer case and speedometer, GM used it for a reason.
They are available, but pricey $$.
https://www.transfercasesolutions.com/online-store/Speedometer-Calibration-Box-p613167600
There’s a lot of re-pop badges out there, also designs you can customize,
I don’t have any idea about the quality of them though.
I want something there on the fender just not sure what yet.
Here’s a example:
https://hhclassic.com/c-755732-truck-emblems-fender-emblems.html
One place the tall bed sides really comes into play is with a fifth wheel camper.
Getting enough clearance between the bed and camper over hang is crucial.
When I went to a dually it actually sat about two inches lower than the single rear wheel truck I had previously.
I got a set of the Hooker manifolds in black. They do fit well, I used the factory bolts. They have thick flanges with a flat gasket on the output, getting ready to fit dual exhaust to them.
As previously posted we need more info..
Is it “Too high” when traveling in high gear, or “Too high” when trying to take off in low gear?
Please elaborate
Just a thought… I don’t have any idea if this applies to your situation.
On the older vehicles (not sure about the years?) a wire ran from the starter solenoid to the coil, this was for providing sufficient power to the coil while the starter was cranking…
Are you sure about the battery itself?