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  1. foamypirate

    87 radiator replacement

    I just prefer not to have to mess with draining coolant, pulling the radiator, drying it, welding it, reinstalling it. I'll keep running my $$$ saving plastic tanked radiators, of which I've never had failure, and not mess with all that. ;)
  2. foamypirate

    87 radiator replacement

    To each their own, I guess. I've had more aluminum radiators leak than plastic-tanked.
  3. foamypirate

    87 radiator replacement

    Both of my Spectra Premiums were made in Canada. Not sure if that's still the case, however. I also don't quite understand the aversion to plastic tanked radiators. Every OEM vehicle for the last 25 years has had one, and in my experience, they hold up very well.
  4. foamypirate

    87 radiator replacement

    I've had great luck with Spectra Premium radiators from RockAuto. I put one in my 84' about 5 years ago, and it's still going strong, and I also have one in my LS swapped crew cab. It's only 1 year old, but no issues so far. They run around ~$100-120
  5. foamypirate

    Vent window gasket placement?

    They should tuck into the door frame like so:
  6. foamypirate

    14 bolt 10.5" rear disc conversion

    Check out Cut Bro's on Facebook. They offer a kit to bolt later 14-bolt AAM 10.5" brakes onto the older 14 bolts. These use the drum-in-rotor e-brake w/ stock 2500HD calipers, if I recall right:
  7. foamypirate

    What have you done to your square lately??

    Yep, and 81'+ don't even need to do that much, since they already have the same metric fitting as the LS pump.
  8. foamypirate

    New to the list, need to sell my 85 C-20 2x4

    LOL. Farthest thing from it...
  9. foamypirate

    First start complete, now what? Lol

    Feels good, doesn't it? Keep up the good work, sir!
  10. foamypirate

    th350 vent tube/check valve location and access.

    You can see the small vent on my TH350 on the driver side of the case. Mine uses a small check valve instead of a tube.
  11. foamypirate

    Alternator wiring

    Awesome! Looking forward to a status report once you fire it up!
  12. foamypirate

    Alternator wiring

    You could always run it on the firewall. Just make sure you put the big 150 amp fuse as close to the battery as possible, and use some good heavy gauge wire (8ga) to the distribution block, and you'll be fine.
  13. foamypirate

    Alternator wiring

    C5s aren't bad, price wise. I bought a really low mile one for $17.5K. If I had to do it again, I'd get something with a few more miles; this one has some weird issues from sitting that I've been working on repairing. I've seen good examples go for 14-15k.
  14. foamypirate

    Alternator wiring

    It's on the on the core support, engine bay side, on the driver's side. I relocated my battery to the driver's side to use the factory LS battery cables. If you aren't keen on relocating the battery, the passenger side might make more sense. Nice Vette, btw! I've got a C5 (currently in pieces...
  15. foamypirate

    Alternator wiring

    They'll be on the left side of the bulkhead. The right side bundle is tail light wiring, if I recall.
  16. foamypirate

    Alternator wiring

    There isn't a hard and fast rule, per se, but in general, a 6" length of fusible link, 2 gauges smaller than the wire it feeds, is a good general rule of thumb. For example, if your power feed to your harness was 14 gauge wire, you would use a 6" length of 16 gauge fusible link.
  17. foamypirate

    Alternator wiring

    Yep, those are the two wires I was talking about. One of them should be running the the junction block on the firewall (which was originally fed from the battery terminal on the starter). I opted to run dedicated wires from my distribution block for the 2 running into the bulkhead, and then a...
  18. foamypirate

    Alternator wiring

    The LS alternator is ECM controlled. As long as his harness has the pigtail for it, he's good.
  19. foamypirate

    Alternator wiring

    Here is how I setup my wiring: I have a heavy gauge wire straight from the battery, through a large fuse, then to a distribution block. From the distribution block, I power both power wires into the factory bulkhead, a wire to the junction block on the firewall for the HVAC, and a power wire to...
  20. foamypirate

    Alternator wiring

    No need to use the truck wiring EXCEPT that you need to trace the original alternator's output wire to see if it's providing power to the bulkhead (there are two power IN wires on TBI trucks). You need to make sure you tie it into a 12v power source with a fusible link, as close to the battery...
  21. foamypirate

    Vacuum bowl required?

    You'll want to keep it, along with the check valve. The vacuum line (hard plastic) runs into the cab with the wiring for the blower motor. Even without AC, you need the vacuum ball to maintain proper control of the flaps in the heater box. Without the ball, they will open and close with engine...
  22. foamypirate

    Low Oil Pressure???

    Big blocks are notorious for making poopy oil pressure at idle, too.
  23. foamypirate

    LS motor coolant line routing

    I've got mine tapped into the top of the water pump. I'm using a Camaro LS3 pump, so there is a nice spot for it. You can just see the brass barb sticking out the back of the upper hose area of the pump:
  24. foamypirate

    General Suspension Refresh

    I've got a C20, so I've got nice steel bushings. No give in those puppies! :P
  25. foamypirate

    LS motor coolant line routing

    You've got it right. You will cap the small port below the radiator cap. You can see it capped off on my swap:

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