Next I spent some time figuring out how the hell I was going to get the power steering pump installed and figuring out why there was so much slop in the shift linkages. Turns out you have to remove the entire accessory drive, install the pump, and reinstall the drive. The shifter for the...
Next up was trying to polish this turd a little bit to keep it's vital fluids inside. The slip yoke was a rusted mess. Don't make the mistake of trying to clean up the yoke, just buy a new one. It is still going to trash the seal and leak.
The headers did not fit inside the frame rails without some persuasion. I did not want to grind down the frame rail so I took a hammer to the headers themselves. I'm not sure I would recommend these to anyone. In retrospect I should have swapped to an internal hydraulic slave cylinder and...
I knew I wasn't going to happy with the exhaust or wiring so I ordered a painless kit and a set of the Schoenfeld headers that I heard would fit with the 4WD and a manual trans.
I tried to move ahead with the Griffin radiator that came with the truck and some flex hoses. My plan was to use a mechanical fan from the early LS engines and the shroud from the SBC.
The "ears" on the manifolds and the O2 sensor also wanted to occupy the same space as the frame so I knew the easy exhaust was not going to work for me.
The trans went together pretty smoothly with the engine with the exception of one bolt that didn't line up between the bell housing and engine. It also became obvious pretty early on that neither the Vortec manifolds or the LS3 manifolds off my car were going to clear the external slave cylinder.
I spent a long time getting the truck on the road and relatively save to drive and haven't updated in a while so there's a lot to unpack. I will try to keep it in chronological order.
I ended up reusing the clutch and pressure plate that attached the SM465 to the SBC that came out of the truck...
I ended up taking the door off again to change the spring. Didn't want to get frustrated and ruin a second one. Most of my gaps look fine. The only issue is the rear, top of the door sits too low. I think this was the first problem and solution that was discussed in the write up and involved...
Well, it definitely fits better and it's certainly warmer but I'm not convinced it is as good as it should be. But my truck has no carpet, insulation, etc. so it's possible I will always struggle to heat in the interior.
Well, I got the new one installed today and it was immediately better. I could feel more heat coming out of the unit at 186F then I had previously at 204F. I didn't take it out on the highway yet but I drove around my neighborhood and the air coming out of the vents was hot enough to burn my hand.
I'm going through a similar troubleshooting process with my truck. I only have one speed and originally it was very slow and would not stop at the bottom. I swapped in the WAI motor and cleaned up the threads where the motor grounds. I now have a decent low speed and it parks like it should. But...
The one on the left is the one that came out and looks exactly like the carquest one I bought to replace it that's currently in the truck. I guess I will brave the cold tomorrow to make the swap.
The spectra website would suggest this is the right heater core for almost every square body...
The Spectra unit definitely looks the part much better than the carquest unit. I thought the carquest unit looked like it was about a half inch too narrow, but it was the same size as the one that came out of it.
It wouldn't be the first time the mix of military and civilian parts screwed me. I'll spend some time tomorrow looking at the tech manuals for the M1008 and see if I can get a part number to cross reference.
For what it is worth the only options I see are air conditioning or non-air...
I definitely think the heater core could be about an inch wider. But I filled in as much as I could with the foam tape that came with the new heater core.