On a GM crate motor you should be able to have have the dip stick on either side. also they should have 7 bolt heads to handle both types of exhaust manifolds a 305 or a 350. at least the dozens of them I installed all did. if yours doesn't it's not a crate motor.
highdesertranger
lets see if I remember how to do this,
hey that was easy. right there in the circle, that is the idler shaft rear plate. that is a 205 part time transfer case. that is the quickest easiest way to tell.
highdesertranger
looking at the rear of the case a 205(part time) has a cover that has 3 bolts holding it in place that is the idler shaft. it's located about where your fill plug is. a 203(full time) does not have that. I don't have a 205 pic handy, maybe someone will post one. highdesertranger
pleary you have a 203 full time transfer case. it uses 10-40 engine oil. if it has hubs it has a conversion kit in it but the transfer case still uses 10-40. and yes you remove the lower bolt on the front output shaft rear bearing retainer. highdesertranger
if it was there or not is really not the issue. they should have fixed it while they were in there. or at least pointed it out and given him some options. their attitude on the return line speaks volumes. highdesertranger
look at the 4th pic in post #7. you can clearly see they left a bolt of the rod access plate. plus it looks like a 2 year old smeared RTV on the plate. highdesertranger
yes and then take a ohm reading of the sending unit at the same time. that will probably answer a few question. to get real precise hook a resister up to the sending unit wire and see if the gauge respond like it is supposed to. I have a resister box so I can adjust the resistance in real...
efing Midas. they also left a bolt off the rod access plate. now I am confused an 86 should have a return line. are you saying it didn't have one before all this? and yes a return line helps keep it from vapor locking. don't listen to those idiots at Midas. also was it an ACDelco fuel...
yeah I can't find them either. I need them for a 78 crew cab, they are the same as a suburban. for me it's not a high priority as I still have the old ones. highdesertranger
yeah no need to cut the door. it's not that hard to do it the right way. it comes out the hole that's at the top rear of the door behind the door panel. you need to remove the reinforcing bracket that is across the hole. highdesertranger
USA1 does make the correct color matched green interior parts. I am not sure what parts you need.
USA1 Industries Classic Restoration GMC & Chevy Truck Parts, Chevrolet
highdesertranger
infrared thermometers are a great tool but you must remember they are not measuring the true coolant temp. they will get you in the ball park. remember an infrared thermometer will not accurately measure a liquid. you can't take the radiator cap off and point the thermometer into the coolant...
here's what I do. I go to a rebuilder who rebuilds heavy/medium truck steering boxes. they are far superior to your average rebuilder because they must pass muster with the commercial enforcement officers. so BS rebuilders don't last long. they usually run in the 200 buck range, last one I...
first off why are you going replace parts that you don't even know are bad. you need to troubleshoot this and find out what is actually happening. I would start by finding out exactly what temp it's running at. remove the radiator cap and put a known good thermometer in the water and see what...