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  1. R

    Quick ? On installing steering wheel..?

    Did you leave any parts out?? Particularly the spring under the lock plate that provides preload for the column bearings. On another note.. Clean out all that gunk on the hub.. This area provides the ground path for the horn circuit.
  2. R

    LMC EFI Tank Sender problem

    First let me say -- The problem I have with working with you is, you do don't read and comprehend my words or you do not follow instructions. Tad, I've been doing this since before these square bodies were even on the drawing boards. I got started doing this before the Viet Nam war was raging...
  3. R

    LMC EFI Tank Sender problem

    I realize there's no "arm", but you can't figure out how to make the rheostat "wiper" change the resistance???? You've argued and debated every suggestion made here.. I have over 30 years working as a professional. Specialized in A/C and electrical the last 20 of those years.. Yet I don't know...
  4. R

    LMC EFI Tank Sender problem

    No need to use a bucket of water or a bucket of anything.. Simple connect the sender to a multimeter and swing the arm through its range of travel.. Do this test to both senders and compare the 2 responses.. Then using jumpers to ground, connect the senders (one at a time) to the sender wire...
  5. R

    LMC EFI Tank Sender problem

    Make certain the sender has a good frame ground strap. Grounding the sender lead is not all conclusive. Check the resistor on the back of the gauge.. Should be ~ 85 ohms.. Resistor must be removed from gauge to get a proper reading.
  6. R

    Engine swap.

    The engine, transmission, ECM, accompanying wiring harness, along with some minor fabrication and you should be good to go.. As for the column shifter -- there are kits out there to make this change... LS swaps happen every day, why not this one???
  7. R

    454 starting issues.

    I doubt very seriously something amiss in the transmission and/or clutch is causing the slow turnover.. Even so, that would be the last pieces I'd be disassembling, searching for a problem.. Go over the basics first.. Disconnect the power wire at the distributor and remove all the sparkplugs...
  8. R

    Dash lights not working

    Well, it looks like it's boiled down to 2 choices.. Live with what you've got or get on the phone with Classic Industries.. You've got the part number and price..
  9. R

    Dash lights not working

    Connecting the radio to the dash light wire probably burned out the rheostat for the dash lights. Less than 5 minutes of searching and one phone call to a local auto parts store yielded this. https://www.classicindustries.com/product/1979/chevrolet/truck/parts/1995154.html
  10. R

    Dash lights not working

    Did you trace the dash light power wire from the instrument cluster plug all the way back to the headlight switch?? Have you replaced that blown dash light fuse?? You plan "to run a new power wire"?? From where to where??
  11. R

    What Classic Insurance to get?

    I've had Haggerty coverage in the past with no problems.. Recently my DD agent suggested I give Condon Skelly a try.. Their rates are cheaper for comparable coverage.. Standard requirements -- store in a secured bldg, vehicle not be used for daily commutes.. Their rates are based on estimated...
  12. R

    Turn signal issues

    It doesn't matter what wire is spliced into another.. Doing so is never recommended for repairing a faulty light circuit.. Undo the splice and start over with diagnosing the problem.. For starters, Front turn signals are totally separate from the rear.. Rear turn signals also serve as brake...
  13. R

    Dash lights not working

    Look again, yes you do have an orange wire.. As I stated -- it is always hot.. It carries power to the dome light, courtesy lights if you have them, and among other items -- power to the horn relay and cigarette lighter.. Question.... Do you have a wiring diagram for your truck and are you using...
  14. R

    Dash lights not working

    The dash light fuse isn't blowing because of "back feed".. It's blowing because it's wiring is not heavy enough to carry the current of the lights AND a radio.. There is a receptacle on the fuse box marked "Radio". That's where your radio can receive key on power. The constant power needed for...
  15. R

    1985 K20. Need inspection to get tags. How to wire external horn button?

    The horn circuit is a simple relay controlled circuit.. Three wires and a relay make up the entire circuit. It would probably be easier to repair the circuit than to design and engineer a completely new circuit.. . Refer to the wiring diagram for the following. The relay's common contact and...
  16. R

    no electrical power

    The starter can surge upwards of 200 amps when it first engages.. In the 2 - 3 seconds before the engine actually "catches" the draw can be 150 - 180 amps.. The smaller ground straps grounding the engine to the body and frame cannot carry that much load.. The negative cable needs to be attached...
  17. R

    no electrical power

    Read post #2
  18. R

    no electrical power

    "One click at the solenoid, then dead"???? I'm with Scott in that you don't have a bad battery issue. This is the first symptom of dirty/corroded battery posts and cable terminals.. Clean 'em and start taking voltage checks all over the main power feed wire and fuse box terminals...
  19. R

    Headlight issue

    From the factory, headlights didn't have a relay.. However, one could have been added at some point in time.. The power feed circuit to the headlight switch is protected by a fusible link. If you have power on the yellow wire, the fusible link is intact, and the switch is functioning. If you...
  20. R

    Stalling in Gear and Brake Warning Light

    Disconnect the brown wire from the brake proportioning valve. If the light goes out, you have unequal fluid pressure and bleeding may or may not correct it. If the light stays lit, you have a problem with the light's electrical circuit. Setting the parking brake also turns on the "brake warning"...
  21. R

    Engine is at high idle but when I press the brake in gear the engine wants to die

    Back to basics.. Base timing is a critical adjustment.. Also curb idle, choke adjustment, and idle mixture adjustment.. If the choke doesn't fully release after engine warm-up, fast idle cam will hold the idle speed too high. Hard brake pedal is indicative of a bad power brake booster..
  22. R

    Gusseting corporate 10 bolt/ 8 lug.

    Do you mean gusseting? I've installed several over the years.. I've also installed back braces for drag racing and dirt track applications.. The thing to watch out for is warping due to all the heat produced from the welding. Unless you plan on doing some serious off-roading or sled pulling...
  23. R

    no electrical power

    Fusible links on an automobile are like the main breakers in the breaker box of your house. When they blow, all power is lost.
  24. R

    Do I need an Alternator upgrade?

    [EDIT] post removed, information no longer applies.......
  25. R

    Busted Alternator Bolt

    I wouldn't chance driving that far without an alternator, too much risk of being stranded with a dead battery.. Disconnect one of the battery cables and remove the brackets, alternator, and that sleeve.. That long bolt doesn't bottom out in the hole so the piece should unscrew easy enough.. You...

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