I just replaced the ammeter with a voltmeter in my '74. One side of the ammeter should be switched +. 1) I removed the right side (as seen from the back of the ammeter gauge) mounting clip to printed circuit board. 2) made up a short wire for the voltage gauge ground and attached it to the oil...
Somebody please correct me if I'm wrong, I thought with the Tcase in 2wd the front auto hubs would disconnect when backing up for 10? feet or so,
then re-engage when in 4wd and going forward.
Measure from the under-dash mounting bolts to steering wheel, then the bolts to firewall and finally the firewall to rag joint on the truck, then go hunting.
Just a thought :favorites13:
There might be some residue in the heater core. If the glow plug relay failed, maybe starting fluid was used, head gaskets also failed then some "engine repair in a can" was used.
Did it come from CT? I remember seeing a quarry in RI, maybe I-95S
I bought my gantry used. The beam is 12' long, 7" tall and 4" wide. I do not know how many lbs per foot it is and it is labeled "1ton". Several times I've swapped 6.5TDs.
What type of lifter/cam, roller, flat tappet? Did you do the proper break-in?
If you end up replacing the cam & lifters it wouldn't hurt to use "vented oil galley plugs" under the timing cover. They help bleed air out of the lifter's oil galley.