Tried my hand at test stripping the clear coat then cleaning and polishing one of the aluminium wheels I'm planning on putting on the truck. Didn't turn out perfect (small dark spots and some pitting) but much better then before.
Before
After
Close up of dark spots
I've always used brass plugs and permatex #2, works great. I would not use RTV, you need something to harden for core plugs. I've also been told by a mechanic shop to use some loctite and pound them in, I haven't personally done this but I'm sure it'll work too.
Does the oil on the dipstick look the same? If that looks fine it could just be a build up of condensation in that breather. If the oil on the dipstick is also milky then its most likely a bad head gasket. Loosing coolant is also a good sign of a bad head gasket.
I'm with clogged belt as well, doesn't seem quite right. I know that edelbrocks dont like to see much more then 6psi. But I dont know if qjets have that same issue. If it were mine I guess I'd be thinking a fuel starvation issue, or a different carb issue (along with what else has been said)...
I had a similar issue myself on hot starts. I ended up adding a 3 port regulator and blocked the return port on the regulator and kept the 3 port pump to return fuel as needed. Works well for my edelbrock carb and solved the issue. Either way would work as long as you have some kind of return...
I replaced my ashtray (dont smoke anymore) with a slick rocker switch plate I got from a guy on etsy then butchered it up some to put in the USB pass through plug which runs to the rear of my stereo for phone charging and such. Came out decent I feel except for the white super glue.
I have them on my truck. So far I'm a huge fan. Only issue I ran into was the clearence between the front HD shackle and header flange. On my truck the exhaust shop fixed the flange so everyone else probably won't have this issue.
I totally forgot to update this. But, I did take it to a local point s which looked it over Saturday. They did say that they believe the newer rear drums to have a high spot and need to be turned. But their normal guy wasent there and the one that was working "isn't very good at it" so I have...
Really thought about picking this one up for aautocross and weekend cruiser type hotrod.
https://seattle.craigslist.org/see/cto/d/monroe-76-chevy-10-shortbed-pro-street/7086598573.html
While not a square its still a pretty slick truck...
Heres my setup.
Regulator
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/hly-12-840
Gauge
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/aei-15632
Line and filter from the regulator to the carb 1405
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/edl-81343
Line from pump to reg
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/edl-81233
Then...
Your right about the edels not liking over 5psi. Get an in line regulator some time and set it at 4.5. Makes things much smoother. OR go back to a properly setup qjet.
It's possible that one of the new ones I put on had a high spot or something due to bad QC. Or I might have gotten something not put back together quite right.
Can you get the corona from chineseum metal???? Lol JK the ones I bought where a few years ago and from napa so.. maybe?
Here is the...
Yes the shaking stops with brakes released or when I feather the pedal. Which is how I've been driving it lately. I'll try and get a quick video of it happening tonight after work, there is a hill that it always happens.
Edit: I did a test on the way in this morning. While driving I held the e...
Hello everyone,
I have another annoying issue with the k20 and Im hoping for some guidance on where to start looking for the problem.
While applying medium to hard braking I get a pretty severe shake. This shake gets worse when headed downhill. I do not feel the steering going side to side nor...
Heres some of that LT. Also had a 02 cr125 but now were sticking with our suzuki ltz400, then our Honda 400ex, crf450r, and crf250r. Been alot of fun. The aluminum on that LT just never held up, and it rattled out bolts.
Everything I've read about the 8.1 swap is that it's pretty straight forward for bolting in. Fits the same as a 454. I think they can even use the same headers.
This guy DirtyLarry who is all over some other forums did it and has ALOT of detail on how he did it and things he ran into. He is...
Took the day off for a few appointments today and totally capitalized. Bolted in my new power block and wired everything to it. Came out pretty clean instead of running all of that directly off my battery terminal.
Definately need a good bit of work but very worth it in the end. <- This is coming from a guy who rebuilt an 87 suzuki lt250r two years ago from a basket of parts and a separately sourced frame. Build it to keep it, you'll never get near what you put into it if you sell it.
If there is enough actual metal in the front of that thing you might be able to get some steel and fab up a custom higher bumper with a skid plate across the lower front. Kinda like this thing minus the hoop dealy. Might be cheaper then buying new plastic shat and itll hold up better.
I think we got it fixed up. I went through last night and replaced all of the Previous owners janky connections. I not only found the T tap, but also three other T Taps, and a few crimped on wire nuts. I replaced all of that with some clean solder and shrink wrap. Really cleaned the wiring up...
Yep, those damn things are just like vacuum leaks. I'll dust off my soldering iron and brush up on my skills. I already have the needed wire and shrink wrap. Worst case I still get a new unit but know that my connections are good.
5 - 6 years. Crazy thing, this morning no cutting in the audio. I'm going to rewire the thing completely this weekend and see what that does for me. I figure it's free and easy enough to do.
Edit: before my drive to work it seemed to be working fine. During the drive and after it started acting...