DOD and AFM are the same thing. DOD is what GM called it before the 2000's. It is now AFM(trademarked by GM), but everyone just calls it AFM/DOD. Late Gen III started to get DOD/AFM and then Gen IV got AFM and VVT in various mixes...
Are you reconstructing it from parts? Is the actual titled VIN not a 4wd? Usually the partial is only there to show that it matches the full VIN on the dashboard or the inside of the door jam.
I knew that there was a 1" difference between the frames, but It appears I had my numbers wrong. 1/2 ton and 3/4 ton have the same frame height. If yours is an HD(C6P) option, the frame thickness(how thick the actual metal is) will be more than the standard 3/4 ton and all 1/2 ton frames. The...
I'm confused... what is made of plastic? The ZF6 was standard on most of the towing application with high torque like 8.1 and Duramax trucks, they are super beefy. If they bolt right up to an 8.1, they will bolt right up to any SBC or BBC
There are permanently locked, manually locking, and then auto locking hubs. A standard 4x4 would have manually locking hubs as standard with an NP205, NP208, or NP241 depending on year and GVWR. Auto locking was an optional RPO for those transfer cases.
Permanently locked hubs only came on 4x4...
That wire was supposed to only be temporary to make sure you didn't have an ignition power problem. As soon as it didn't fix your problem you should have removed it and gone back to the regular system.
Now that you have it able to run with you out of the drivers seat, you need to do the proper...
The VIN being for a K25 means you are only tow rated for 6k lbs or maybe even less. That being said... my 1980 K25 has the exact same drivetrain and brakes that could have come on a 1999 and earlier 1-ton truck that is rated for 10k lbs of towing or more. The only squarebody trucks I've seen...
The cab is from a 8600GVW K25. Single cab, single rear wheel. Looks like someone swapped the cab onto a C30 cab and chassis frame/running gear. You can see if it is a one ton by measuring the height of the frame C-channel. I think the 3/4 ton is 5-ish inches and the 1-ton is 6-ish inches tall...
The problem was that you ran out of fuel. It takes a lot of cranking to get all the air out of the lines when you do that(if it ever will). You usually have to crack the fuel lines at the injector pump or the injectors themselves until you start getting diesel to pump out while cranking. Then...
Other than there being absolutely NO REASON to do so? '85 C10 should be a 10 bolt rear. It's basically identical to the 10 bolt used all the way up into the 2010's. My 2011 K1500 Suburban calls for 75-90 synthetic and I usually use this...
I bet you have the connector plugged in upside down. It's a common problem on swaps, especially with standalone harnesses. Make sure that the person that built the harness put the pins in the right spots and also that you are plugging it into the transmission in the correct orientation. Make...
Damn... I'm really tempted to go get it. I probably don't even need a trailer, just flat tow it down to salem behind the K25 with a Harbor Fright tow bar.
If it is backfiring out of the carb, you are 180 out. It was trying to fire before and not backfiring, so you just needed to turn it a bit, then try to crank it. You don't need someone else there, just turn then crank, turn then crank.
loosen the hold down bolt so that the distributor will turn with force, but not on it's own. Crank the engine while turning the distributor slightly clockwise or counterclockwise until it fires off. Once it has fired off, set the timing with a timing light.
Start simple and don't get yourself going down a rabbit hole. Check all bulbs first. Then check all grounds by actually verifying continuity to ground from the terminal itself. Every single square I have ever owned has had issues with the ground wire connection at the bulb socket itself. It will...
My other thought(if all the wiring is correct), is that a pop but no start is exactly what you would get if you have the distributor installed 180 out. If you find that you have all the wiring correct and 12v at the coil+ with the ignition on, then you should turn the engine over until you have...
Can't really tell anything from your pics. What happened to the factory wire harness IGN+ wire? A '77 model year would have been factory HEI, so you should have a solid 12v source wire right there to tie into the coil. According to the summit instructions you wire the distributor like this:
My...
1975 Model year and older does not need a smog inspection in California. They can still get hit with citations for things if you are pulled over by a cop and that can lead to other issues, but 1973 and older doesn't even have any emissions requirements under the clean air act... so they would...
I have NEVER seen a properly torqued flywheel bolt come loose. Either that mechanic hasn't had his torque wrench calibrated in too long, or he didn't do something right. Loctite needs clean threads to really work properly. What torque did the mechanic say he used? Were they just stock flywheel...
For steel, you need at least 1x the nominal thread diameter for maximum strength. 1-1/2x nominal thread diameter is even better. So for an 8-lug that would be 9/16-7/8" of thread engagement in the nut.
Since the thread pitch is 9/16-18, you have 18 threads in one inch of fastener. That means...
Yep, two fusible links at the starter. There is also a fusible link that goes from that stud down towards the alternator. You probably smoked the fusible link from the starter to the fuse box for batt power(one is batt power and the other is ignition). You should be able to tell which one it is...
Your best best is probably to get an entire vehicle if you can. I think they just ran 4l60's behind them in the trailblazer... so nothing special there.