Steering Column needs to be rebuild

Ricko1966 said:

I wish I had known that 37 posts ago,I thought you just had some serious desire to get the Armour off. LOL.

Click to expand...

Well it might still have to come off because the more I look at it, the more I begin to suspect that the ignition switch cylinder will not come out through the hole in the armor thing. Super cold and dark out there right now, but I am going to have to do some very close examining of that area next change I get.

I have a problem. I have a 1975 K20, factory power steering, with NO TILT COLUMN.
I found the column at LMC. They list two. I am getting the paintable one, for floor column shift. SM465
I've looked everywhere to see which is the correct part between these two (BELOW) for my truck. This is to LMC, and they can't answer the question.

Dear LMC:

I have a 1975 Chevrolet K20, factory power steering, 4 speed floor shift, and am putting in your paintable tilt column.

Which of these two parts you list, are correct for my application? It is very confusing because online they say this:

A 1975 Chevy K20 with power steering and a 13/16"x 36 spline steering coupler would need a steering column with the following measurements:

• Gearbox input shaft: Typically 3/4"-36 spline which is not listed in your options.I will be placing an order soon, and need to know which one. OR, can I use what I have in there now, but I do not have tilt column in there now? Please, any help would be great. Nothing matches up.

Here's the link for the columns at LMC if that helps.
https://www.lmctruck.com/steering/steering-column-parts/cc-1973-78-tilt-wheel-steering-column

Bottom line - you need to get a source that understands the changes in the steering box, shaft and wheel from '75 to newer trucks. Newer and older design parts cost about the same, but you need the right one. If you look for discussions about using a Jeep steering shaft in a squarebody you will also find a lot of discussion.

'75 and on up to about '79 they used a different spline count on the steering box. This means that for steering shafts and couplers there are two versions. I think they are both the same spline count on the steering wheel end of the shaft, but I'm not sure.

The Borgeson shaft I used is adjustable in length, and can be cut to provide even more flexibility. On my '75 I cut the shaft about 3 1/2" on the upper end where it connect to the steering wheel, and then used the adjustable section at the gear box to fit it in place and extend out to the right length. Its cheaper to buy Borgeson through Summit than directly from Borgeson.

I also bought a new Borgeson steering box for my '75, and getting the right shaft got a little more complicated. I ordered the CV joint shaft for a '75, but after I got it I realized the new Borgeson box used the splined fitting from the newer trucks. After a call to their tech support I found I had to return the shaft and get one for the newer trucks. If I had decided to just use the old shaft with a rag joint I think it would have been easier, since only the rag joint would have been different.

YakkoWarner said:

Interesting thought - I just assumed it would require removal to disassemble the column. All I want to do is get at the 4 bolts in the base to tighten the floppy tilt mechanism, not trying for a total restoration. If it can be done with the armor in place even better.

Click to expand...

I don't see why you'd have to remove it. What you're trying to do is inside the column.

YakkoWarner said:

Well it might still have to come off because the more I look at it, the more I begin to suspect that the ignition switch cylinder will not come out through the hole in the armor thing. Super cold and dark out there right now, but I am going to have to do some very close examining of that area next change I get.

Click to expand...

Still looks like the armor will not hinder you in any way

These guys aren't in Texas but they rebuilt mine. I shipped it to them and they shipped it back in a week! Plus if your going to tackle the rebuild yourself they have all the parts you need. https://www.steeringcolumnservices.com/


Top pic is before, torn apart and after on the bottom. Follow their guidance on the web site.

DoubleDingo said:

Still looks like the armor will not hinder you in any way

Click to expand...

I'm hoping you are right - I just have to determine if the ignition cylinder can come out thru the hole or not. Since I don't have another GM vehicle to compare to I can't be sure, but it looks like the ignition cylinder isn't a standard type because it has 3 very small screws that allow the outer chrome trim flange to be removed, and the armor fits tight around the opening behind the trim flange. If that opening is smaller than the cylinder itself, that will prevent the cylinder from coming out which means I won't be able to get all the way down to the bolts I need to access.

YakkoWarner said:

I'm hoping you are right - I just have to determine if the ignition cylinder can come out thru the hole or not. Since I don't have another GM vehicle to compare to I can't be sure, but it looks like the ignition cylinder isn't a standard type because it has 3 very small screws that allow the outer chrome trim flange to be removed, and the armor fits tight around the opening behind the trim flange. If that opening is smaller than the cylinder itself, that will prevent the cylinder from coming out which means I won't be able to get all the way down to the bolts I need to access.

Click to expand...

If you have replaced a lock cylinder in one of these before, you're golden. If not, you'll be fine from what I am seeing. It is released from inside the column, and from the pics you posted of the armor, it doesn't appear to be blocking the lock cylinder. I may be wrong, but it sure looks like you can do the work you need to do.

I found using real red locktite on the 4 retaining screws works. Chinese "rock-rite" not so much.