LTZ Seat Swap

I'm currently building a 1977 K5 for my son's first truck. I picked up a set of leather LTZ seats from a 2010 Suburban, fronts and 3rd row. I'm trying to figure how to wire the driver seat heat. Anyone done this swap and have the heat working? Does anyone know how to wire in the temperature sensors?

Here's what I've figured out so far:

Driver seat
- Larger gauge red/wht and smaller gauge red/wht are power (+)

- Larger gauge black is ground (-)

- This makes the forward, backward, up, down, recline, and lumbar work.


Passenger seat
- larger gauge red/white power (+)

- larger gauge black negative (-)

- larger gauge dark blue power (+) for heat butt/back

- larger light blue ground (-) for back

- larger gauge pink ground (-) for butt

I have no idea on the specifics of that seat, but usually there's no temperature sensors in seats. They're usually thermally regulated. They only get as hot with how much power you throw at them. 14v is full tilt heat. If you measure the resistance of the heater, you can calculate how much heat it puts out. Assuming 13v for an older alternator with accessories dragging it down a little, I=V/R which gives you the amps through the circuit. Then you can calculate watts, W=V*I. You can increase or decrease the amount of heat with a 5-10 ohm variable resistor.

Well, I'll be dipped. Found a pinout. Hope this helps. https://www.oemcarandtruckseats.com...RdG6Mr5T-7TTuu3snSk9htEeCnjIYAaPosMivJesJGdkx

Looks like pin A1-Light Blue is the driver seat back and A2-Pink is the driver seat bottom heat. B7- Dark Blue is the common.

Thanks for the pin out, I tried using it but couldn't seem to make anything work. So I found the wires on the module under the seat and was able to make it work from there. So here is what I found and did to make the seats function:

Driver seat

Movement
Pin A7 Red/White wire and Pin B6 Red/White wirw - 12v + constant

Pin B8 Black wire - ground

Heat:

I added 2 relays and mounted rocker switches on the side of the seat. I'm using the relays to close the contact to the ground.

Pin B7 Dark Blue wire - 12v + ign.

On the module under the seat on the black plug:
Pin 6 Light Green wire top row - Butt ground
Pin 8 Purple wire bottom row - Back ground


Passenger seat ( I forgot to get the pin placement, but it is easier to figure out)

Movement
larger gauge Red/White wire - 12v + constant

larger gauge Black wire - ground

Heat:

I added 2 relays and mounted rocker switches on the side of the seat. I'm using the relays to close the contact to the ground.

larger gauge dark blue power (+) for heat butt/back

larger light blue ground (-) for back

larger gauge pink ground (-) for butt

One both seat harnesses I removed all the extra wires, I figure I'll never make memory work and they just have one temp setting.

To mount the seats I cut peices of 1/4" plate and drilled holes to line up with the factory threaded seat mounting holes. The driver side lines up with the 2 holes towards the center with a little burr bit adjusting to the mounting holes on the seat. I just drilled through the plate and the floorboard for the outer 2 bolts. For the passenger side I altered a set of manual seat slides, mounted them to the plate, then mounted the seats to the slide. This makes it so you can manual slide the seat forward then move it electrically to get enough room to get in the back seat.

I attached pictures of the driver seat wires and how I mounted the relays. Also of the driver plate and the seats in the vehicle. For rear seats I used 3rd row seats out of a 2009 Yukon with brackets from eBay.

Hopefully, this helps others with the same type project.

More pics!

The last few!

That third row seat looks sweet back there. I'm totally doing that in my 'burb.

Wow, that's a cool install! The power tracks mounted to the factory tracks is pure genius! Gets the seats up high enough and doubles the adjustment too!

Looks great, what center console are you going to use?

No clue on center console at this point. It didn't have one when we bought it. We just finished replacing and fixing all the floorboard rust, sprayed bed liner through the entire floor, then put the seats in. Now it's time to install a 5.3L with nv4500! After it's running we'll finish up the interior.

Super cool install.
Sounds like it’ll be a beast with the nicest seats around!

Just had an idea for the back seat cleats. I'm going to make mine so the floor brackets go the same direction. Like a view of the front drawn in text: L-L

Then I'll slot the floor bolt holes. Then I can just quick loosen the bolts, slide the cleats out, and tighten the bolts back down. Leave me with a nearly flat floor for cargo.

Dude, talk about inspiration. Thank you!

Tonimus said:

Just had an idea for the back seat cleats. I'm going to make mine so the floor brackets go the same direction. Like a view of the front drawn in text: L-L

Then I'll slot the floor bolt holes. Then I can just quick loosen the bolts, slide the cleats out, and tighten the bolts back down. Leave me with a nearly flat floor for cargo.

Dude, talk about inspiration. Thank you!

Click to expand...

I was inspired by the front seat adapter plates. Personally, I'd mount the cletes to to a large steel plate, which would in turn be bolted to the floor using the original seat bolt holes. So then if you want the cletes out of the way for whatever reason, it's just 4 bolts.

bucket said:

I was inspired by the front seat adapter plates. Personally, I'd mount the cletes to to a large steel plate, which would in turn be bolted to the floor using the original seat bolt holes. So then if you want the cletes out of the way for whatever reason, it's just 4 bolts.

Click to expand...

My suburban doesn't seem to have third row mounting points. Am I missing something?

Tonimus said:

My suburban doesn't seem to have third row mounting points. Am I missing something?

Click to expand...

Suburbans without the 3rd seat option didn't get the provisions in the floor. '73-'78 had a bolt-in, stationary seat. '79-'91 got the quick release seat with a folding seatback.