Bowler Clutch pedal?

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plugugly

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anyone have experience with it? My teenager really wants a nv4500 with the LS we are putting in, and as you all know, the factory hydro/hydro pedals are a bit of a unicorn anymore. If and when you do find them, they are 4-500 dollars.

If the bowler is a decent functioning option, it may be worth it.

Kids K5 is an 87 with a 6.2 currently.

bowler pedal
 
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@SquareRoot has a pedal assembly for 350.00. I think @Frankenchevy is about to have one for 349.95 You can use factory Z bar pedal assembly if you use a wilwood master at the speedometer hole location,make a pushrod and mounting block @bluex did a write up on that.
 
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Could a guy modify the linkage pedal for hydraulic and have master under floor with remote reservoir on firewall? Maybe I should dig out my hydraulic and mechanical pedals and look at them side by side for comparison.
I did this on a mechanical bell housing to use hydraulic with it.
 

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plugugly

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thanks. Spoke to square root today, and he said he did not hvae one. Ill check with frankenchevy.

Id actually prefer to use a wilwood master. I was looking at the bowler page and they had a master kit, super expensive, with an agled bracket. looks like a stock master has an angled mount as well, ill have to find the writeup bluex did. I like bolt on, but not afraid to fab something up if I have to.
 
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squaredeal91 said:
Could a guy modify the linkage pedal for hydraulic and have master under floor with remote reservoir on firewall? Maybe I should dig out my hydraulic and mechanical pedals and look at them side by side for comparison.
I did this on a mechanical bell housing to use hydraulic with it.
Click to expand...
@bluex did a write up using a master at the speedometer hole location using factory manual pedals,and minimal mods.

NV3500 swap

This is how I went about installing a 96/97 S10 NV3500 into my C10, this way worked for me and will probably be a little different if you use an older or newer transmission. I would stick with 96 and up though as they are the strongest versions of them. Parts list: Purchased through Rock...
www.gmsquarebody.com www.gmsquarebody.com
 
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plugugly said:
thanks. Spoke to square root today, and he said he did not hvae one. Ill check with frankenchevy.

Id actually prefer to use a wilwood master. I was looking at the bowler page and they had a master kit, super expensive, with an agled bracket. looks like a stock master has an angled mount as well, ill have to find the writeup bluex did. I like bolt on, but not afraid to fab something up if I have to.
Click to expand...

NV3500 swap

This is how I went about installing a 96/97 S10 NV3500 into my C10, this way worked for me and will probably be a little different if you use an older or newer transmission. I would stick with 96 and up though as they are the strongest versions of them. Parts list: Purchased through Rock...
www.gmsquarebody.com www.gmsquarebody.com
 
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Any questions just ask, the NV4500 is not a sporty trans at all though. Tough yes but not quick shifting sport car stuff at all. Just fyi...
 
Frankenchevy

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Yes the nv4500 is terribly slow and clunky if you compare it to a manual trans in an average car. Great truck trans for strength, just not a “fun” transmission. This is the reason I’m pulling mine out.

I have the 6 speed variant (nv5600) in one of my Cummins, makes more sense in that truck for me. In a little squarebody that I’m not trying to squeeze every ounce of efficiency and reliability out of, I’m going back to an auto.
 
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The 4500 is like Mike Tyson in silk panties. Tough, smooth, but definitely on the slow side.
 
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i had a zf in a fullsize bronco. Really liked it. The 4500 is really pretty similar, and teh slow shifting will be perfect for the teenager.

Pedals are the issue holding me up right now
 
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Ricko1966 said:
@SquareRoot has a pedal assembly for 350.00. I think @Frankenchevy is about to have one for 349.95 You can use factory Z bar pedal assembly if you use a wilwood master at the speedometer hole location,make a pushrod and mounting block @bluex did a write up on that.
Click to expand...
sent blueox a message regarding this, but maybe you know as well.

I need hydro/hydro for the 87. I can find a manual assembly locally from an 81. Are the brake pedals swappable between seemblies so all I would have to do is swap the foot pads and not dick around with pedal ratio, etc?

Id actaully prefer to use a standard wilwood master with no fancy pants brackets like bowler makes, or old reman units for the stock setup. I plan to run a GPS speedo with the LS/4500 swap anyway.
 
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plugugly said:
sent blueox a message regarding this, but maybe you know as well.

I need hydro/hydro for the 87. I can find a manual assembly locally from an 81. Are the brake pedals swappable between seemblies so all I would have to do is swap the foot pads and not dick around with pedal ratio, etc?

Id actaully prefer to use a standard wilwood master with no fancy pants brackets like bowler makes, or old reman units for the stock setup. I plan to run a GPS speedo with the LS/4500 swap anyway.
Click to expand...
Post 6 I put a link to bluex write up on the wildwood to manual pedals. As for swapping pedals to your bracket, I couldn't tell you for positive, on a GM A body it's that simple,I bet your truck is too, I'd sure study it real good,but I'd bet it will come apart in the truck. As for pedal ratios,that's not a big deal, but the ratio does change between vacuum brake and hydro boost, I would also bet there's a change from manual as well. All you have to do is change where the pushrod attaches to the pedal,usually as simple as drilling a hole. Pedal ratio best I can explain it look at a teeter totter when it's all the way up then all the way down at the furthest part from the pivot there might be 5 foot of up and down movement, 1/2 way between the pivot and the end that same up and down movement might only be 2 foot. Same with your pedals, the further you get from the pivot,the more the pushrod moves in and out.
 
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The bowler kit is a nice piece. You won’t have buyers remorse if that’s the route you choose. Being in Rocklin and your proximity to the Sierra with all the trails,I get the appeal of the nv4500.
 
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Ricko1966 said:
Post 6 I put a link to bluex write up on the wildwood to manual pedals. As for swapping pedals to your bracket, I couldn't tell you for positive, on a GM A body it's that simple,I bet your truck is too, I'd sure study it real good,but I'd bet it will come apart in the truck. As for pedal ratios,that's not a big deal, but the ratio does change between vacuum brake and hydro boost, I would also bet there's a change from manual as well. All you have to do is change where the pushrod attaches to the pedal,usually as simple as drilling a hole. Pedal ratio best I can explain it look at a teeter totter when it's all the way up then all the way down at the furthest part from the pivot there might be 5 foot of up and down movement, 1/2 way between the pivot and the end that same up and down movement might only be 2 foot. Same with your pedals, the further you get from the pivot,the more the pushrod moves in and out.
Click to expand...
thnks. I understand pedal ratio pretty well. Ive had some setups that worked realy well, and others that are super squishy. Learned about ratio the hard way. Thats why I was hoping to be able to take my pedal arm, and throw it on the 81 bracket, then all I have to do is fab up the MC mount, which looks pretty easy peasy
 
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Zelph said:
The bowler kit is a nice piece. You won’t have buyers remorse if that’s the route you choose. Being in Rocklin and your proximity to the Sierra with all the trails,I get the appeal of the nv4500.
Click to expand...
yes sir, fordyce and rubicon are just a stones throw, however hoping my son doesnt want to beat on this too much. He can take my car if he wants to really go wheeling.
 
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