Wanna slam that 63-98 C10/C1500? Lets talk about it!

Grit dog said:

I’d get ‘em! 8.5 and 10 wide yeah? If so the back is fine and I’d go 1/2” wider out to out in the front no problem. Even lowered. Where else you going to get a badass set of new wheels and tires for $1500?
I got about $1600 in mine. 255F 275R Toyos. For reference.
Those would look badass on your truck!

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I’m gonna try! I’m furiously adding up funds to draw from, since I just did the posi and then the inner fenders showed up (of course in preparation for bigger wheels). I’m trying to find a way to scoot these wheels past the missus…I’m currently scrounging every penny.

If he sells them before I get to them, I think I’m going to get (now extremely rare) proper backspace wheels off Jegs and then get the fronts on clearance from the Holley site. That would cost me about 1100-ish.

ChuckN said:

I’m gonna try! I’m furiously adding up funds to draw from, since I just did the posi and then the inner fenders showed up (of course in preparation for bigger wheels). I’m trying to find a way to scoot these wheels past the missus…I’m currently scrounging every penny.

If he sells them before I get to them, I think I’m going to get (now extremely rare) proper backspace wheels off Jegs and then get the fronts on clearance from the Holley site. That would cost me about 1100-ish.

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I thought about the Jegs Holley combo myself. I was just too cheap!

Working on a notch today for a customer (among other things) an thought I'd throw in a few pics of how I do them. I'm sure alot if people are going to say it's overkill etc but this is my preferred way.

The truck is jacked up an supported at the sway bar mounts up front an just before the leaf spring mount rear. Then I support the axle just so none of its weight is pulling down on the frame. Level it side to side and front to back. This will depend on your shop floor, hopefully you can see the shims I had to use on the passenger side. The floor on this side of my shop isn't very level. Then on the rear spring mounts you want to support them as well without disturbing the frame being level. They don't necessarily need to have a bunch of pressure on them but you don't want the frame to drop when you cut it across the bottom.

Supporting it this way will give you a nice cut that won't bind your blade an the frame should not move or pop when you do cut it. Yes I've seen the guys on YouTube doing notches on a 2 post lift an it makes me cringe. Personally I don't like that an the stress it can put on the frame. Again just my opinion an how I do it, right or wrong (overkill is never wrong though) no one is going to change my mind.



Edit: forgot 2 other important things.
1. Drill the corners before you cut. Helps to avoid cracks.
2. Only do 1 side at a time. Make your cut an fully install the notch on that side before cutting the other one.

ChuckN said:

Hey @bluex i thought I’d post this here in case anyone has the same question- since most of the drop spindles are likely manufactured by the same place, do they have stock track width or are they narrowed? I have heard that CPP branded spindles are narrowed track, but not sure.

The question arises because I’m looking for a spare set of wheels (19 or 20”) and brands like Halibrand advertise 5.25” BS for non-narrowed front track and 4.5-4.75” BS for narrowed front track. Thanks in advance for any input.

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The only ones I'm aware of that don't widen the track width for these trucks are the higher end ones from cpp, wilwood an baer that are generally for big brake kits. All the standard style stock type spindles will widen the track width, some less than others but not my much.

Most of your off the shelf cast wheels are designed with this taken into consideration like I mentioned in the wheel section of my posts.

Alot of tubular arms can be had in 1" narrowed now, so I'm not sure if that's what they are referring to but no spindles actually narrow the trac width. It either stays stock or gets wider.

Just finished cutting this side, no fuss, nothing moved and the frame piece fell right out after it was cut. Maybe it's extra steps/wasted time to some people but I like to think the truck will be just as straight as it was before.

You can do all this with the bed still on as well. It is lots easier with it off but this truck is getting other upgrades too (rear mount tank, rewired etc). If you have the time definately pull the bed but if not it is doable with it on. I still level it out but you just have to check more places or the bottom of the frame instead of the top.




Quick word on safety, hopefully everyone follows this but if you've been cutting/grinding/welding don't immediately stop an go to Costco for 2 hrs. Stay around the shop for 45 mins or an hour to make sure nothing is smoldering. As usual too gloves, eye protection, face shield etc. Having metal scraped out of your eyes is no fun. An we've all seen the pictures of a blown up death wheel taken to the face....

bluex said:

The only ones I'm aware of that don't widen the track width for these trucks are the higher end ones from cpp, wilwood an baer that are generally for big brake kits. All the standard style stock type spindles will widen the track width, some less than others but not my much.

Most of your off the shelf cast wheels are designed with this taken into consideration like I mentioned in the wheel section of my posts.

Alot of tubular arms can be had in 1" narrowed now, so I'm not sure if that's what they are referring to but no spindles actually narrow the trac width. It either stays stock or gets wider.

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Thanks for posting that. At the time I wasn’t looking for wheels, so I likely glazed over the wheel section. Good information.