Are OE lug studs long enough? 77 C10

Grit dog said:

Thanks!
Yours would look pimp with the gray or chrome ones.
I’d go US mag scottsdales all day long. Love them but I’m a cheap ass and those are what? $1000 a pop?

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Yah, they ain’t cheap for sure! That’s the cool thing about the Halibrands, they look the part AND are reasonable!

ChuckN said:

Yah, they ain’t cheap for sure! That’s the cool thing about the Halibrands, they look the part AND are reasonable!

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For sure. Fun fact these are the first set of new aftermarket wheels I’ve bought for MY vehicle ever.
Until a couple years ago when the kids got wheels for their car and truck for Xmas I’d never bought more than a set of takeoff something or others for a truck.
These will do the trick and I’ve never seen a set of them in the real world so will be unique.

Per Fastenal, in an ideal situation you want a minimum of 3 full threads extending past the nut.

I have searched just about everywhere to find c10 studs 1/2” longer than stock and zero, nada, nothing if anybody comes up with a part number or location to get some please reply in the post. Problem seams to be the knurl size.

Walstw01 said:

Per Fastenal, in an ideal situation you want a minimum of 3 full threads extending past the nut.

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And AISC only requires the end of the bolt to stick through the nut a minimal distance. IE flush or better.
Now note, a conical tapered nut has more threads for full engagement than a standard hex nut. Sometimes far more as it’s much thicker than a standard hex nut.

Regardless, the extended thread lugs showed up today. I’ll see how many turns they get. Hoping to not go through the goat rope of finding what may be unobtainium length studs.

Well, success.
Got the new wheelios on tonight and even a shot coat of black paint on the drums.
The ET lug nuts were absolutely necessary.
They got 15-16 threads (turns) engaged. More than enough for a 1/2” bolt even if the first few are in the thin part of the extended lug nut.
And got to learn the younger son about how much thread is needed to be a proper connection. Life lessons…lol.
Since he’s the one who identified the issue on his own, it’ll be one he remembers hopefully.
Oh and chased a tweaker out of our subdivision…. Guess it’s time to leave the German Shepherd in the front yard!

Kinda wish I’d just gone 275s all the way around now.
It’s got the slightly staggered look I thought I wanted, but I now sorta think a little more meat on the front tires woulda been nice. (And the bigger tires were $20 a pop less than the smaller ones…)
Wuz slightly concerned I mounted the side pipes a bit too far forward and the front tires might’ve been too close at full steering lock but they still have about a 3” gap with the wheels turned. Whew!
Good thing, because that’s where the pipes centered up the best without the mount locations hitting a body gap or a seam. Or getting overly creative with the mounting.
Feel I could also have gotten away with 1/2” less offset in front. But as it is, this combo got the track width reeeal close to being the same now. Mucho bettero.
And when the older boy got home from the gym, first thing he did was sight down the side of the truck and said, well that’s better, the @ss end ain’t narrower now!
They’re learning!

Anyone needs a set of 5 lugger 15” steelies with matching hub caps and some almost brand new 235-75-15 Toyo ATs, hit me up.
Wheels and hubcaps are straight

Aviation AP Mechanical standard is at least 1 full thread protruding from ANY and ALL fasteners, (with proper washers, as required).

Zero deviation.

Anything less is 100% failure, gross negligence on the mechanic.

Some GM lugs that use a plastic cap are intentionally over-sized so they do NOT allow for the top threads to protrude. By design.

If it looks wrong, it probably is.

RanchWelder said:

Aviation AP Mechanical standard is at least 1 full thread protruding from ANY and ALL fasteners, (with proper washers, as required).

Zero deviation.

Anything less is 100% failure, gross negligence on the mechanic.

Some GM lugs that use a plastic cap are intentionally over-sized so they do NOT allow for the top threads to protrude. By design.

If it looks wrong, it probably is.

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Which is basically AISC spec, the authority for steel construction, with a visual reference and factor of safety brought on you by the dumb asses that list doors off of 737s.
Bottom line is, any conical acorn lug nut has more threads in it than it needs for full strength.

RanchWelder said:

Aviation AP Mechanical standard is at least 1 full thread protruding from ANY and ALL fasteners, (with proper washers, as required).

Zero deviation.

Anything less is 100% failure, gross negligence on the mechanic.

Some GM lugs that use a plastic cap are intentionally over-sized so they do NOT allow for the top threads to protrude. By design.

If it looks wrong, it probably is.

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Those GM lugs you’re referencing dint even have threads all the way thru either. They do look weird like theres something wrong though.

WesN said:

I have searched just about everywhere to find c10 studs 1/2” longer than stock and zero, nada, nothing if anybody comes up with a part number or location to get some please reply in the post. Problem seams to be the knurl size.

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Summit has -->these that have the correct knurl for the front (.620) but you'd have to cut them down from 3".

I haven't run across anything for the rear knurl (.535). If you're willing to drill for a larger knurl, the options open up.

Grit dog said:

Well, success.
Got the new wheelios on tonight and even a shot coat of black paint on the drums.
The ET lug nuts were absolutely necessary.
They got 15-16 threads (turns) engaged. More than enough for a 1/2” bolt even if the first few are in the thin part of the extended lug nut.
And got to learn the younger son about how much thread is needed to be a proper connection. Life lessons…lol.
Since he’s the one who identified the issue on his own, it’ll be one he remembers hopefully.
Oh and chased a tweaker out of our subdivision…. Guess it’s time to leave the German Shepherd in the front yard!

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Great wheel choice! Nice Stance

I’ve had a few sets of aluminum wheels pass through my hands. Each set I was tempted into putting on my square, and each set got passed on to the next guy because there was no way I was putting new studs all the way around just for that. So I’ve always stuck with factory steel wheels. Anyway, love the new wheels. Well worth it.