What have you done to your square lately??

Grit dog said:

Awesome.
Cooper Cobras bring back high school hot rod memories. Lol
Had a set of 275 60 15s on my Impala.
And a set of 33 12.50 Cooper Discoverers on my Blazer plow truck!

A long long time ago

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Yep! Same here. My pops always swore by them on the Corvette. I can still hear him telling me, “ you really want that sidewall, 70 series is where it’s at”. I think a set of 275/60 would’ve looked great on it. He’s probably rolling over in his grave right now with me saying that, haha.

pinballlarry1 said:

I installed the LMC headlight relay kit today in my '81 C10 6 cylinder. I spent about 5 hours working without hurrying, pretty easy job. And best of all, it actually worked correctly as intended with no troubles on the first try!
What this accomplishes is to remove the electrical load (current draw) of the low/high beam headlights from the headlight switch and low/high beam foot switch. These stock items become the control system selector devices for two 30-amp power relays mounted on the inner fender. These relays send direct battery power to the low/high headlamps when activated. This system will have less voltage drop to the headlights, making them brighter. Also the dash switch will now have much less current passing through its headlight contacts.
Quality seems to be good, and I am satisfied. Notes: You can install the relays on drivers or passengers side, but passengers side is probably easiest if you only have the stock battery. You can remove the entire stock headlight wiring from the split loom that goes between both headlight and stuff in the new harness wires if desired. But I decided it was too much work and zip tied the new harness alongside the stock split loom.

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The wiring diagram on the package:

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Since my headlight sockets were brittle and crumbling, I spliced two rubber covered 90-degree headlight connectors onto the LMC harness, I like these alot despite the wire color mismatch with the harness:

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I also deleted the LMC harness headlight male plug and butt spliced the low beam and high beam signal wires directly to the appropriate relay control wire. Everything gets hidden in front of my dual batteries and the two relays are mounted to the inner fender next to the stock battery, no clearance issues.
Drivers side:

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Passengers side where most of the wiring is performed:

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The two red wires on the right are the main power wires that go to the battery. I did attach them directly to the battery positive post temporarily while I get the auxiliary fuse block installed. The aux fuse block will be used for low beams, high beams, fog lights, bed light etc.
On to the next project.

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Thanks for the pics- lots of people have posted favorably about this conversion, so I’m going to do that too. I don’t plan on driving too much at night but it seems just better (and safer). While I’m at it, I’m going to finally get around to changing to a new battery style so the terminals are reversed. That way, if I ever get hit hard in the front end, the battery positive terminal won’t dead short on the radiator core/headlight support.

Goldie Driver said:

Compliments of a tech at my work, we evacuated and recharged the ac in Goldie. Crazy, but only pulled like 2.5 lbs out and put in 4.5 of the same R134.

R12 sticker called for 5.25 lbs.

Funny thing is that I can't tell it blows any colder ...

High side around 250, low around 70.

I don't get it.

Bad condenser, maybe ?

Receiver sweats a lot more now.

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Serpentine or cross flow condenser?

Warshed it for C10s in the City tomorrow

TotalyHucked said:

Warshed it for C10s in the City tomorrow

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Have fun!
Our small local car show is tomorrow. I'm planning to go for the first time.

legopnuematic said:

Serpentine or cross flow condenser?

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LOL- whatever OE for 1980 was.

I keep reading that parallel flow is the way to go but no idea how you would pick a replacement part number.

Wife bought me a GT3 Retro wheel and new radiator for our anniversary. Thought it was a nice gift.

HUFFINCOSMOLINE said:

Wife bought me a GT3 Retro wheel and new radiator for our anniversary. Thought it was a nice gift.

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Very thoughtful gifts! She’s a keeper

Goldie Driver said:

Compliments of a tech at my work, we evacuated and recharged the ac in Goldie. Crazy, but only pulled like 2.5 lbs out and put in 4.5 of the same R134.

R12 sticker called for 5.25 lbs.

Funny thing is that I can't tell it blows any colder ...

High side around 250, low around 70.

I don't get it.

Bad condenser, maybe ?

Receiver sweats a lot more now.

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Those pressures are too high. What was the outside temp and humidity?

bucket said:

Those pressures are too high. What was the outside temp and humidity?

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Approx 95 degrees and 60 percent humidity. Charge was based on 80 percent of the 5.25 lb R12 charge called for by the sticker on the blower box. No real pressure fluctuations so the compressor seems OK and the tech did not think the orifice was clogged.

So, ?

Goldie Driver said:

Approx 95 degrees and 60 percent humidity. Charge was based on 80 percent of the 5.25 lb R12 charge called for by the sticker on the blower box. No real pressure fluctuations so the compressor seems OK and the tech did not think the orifice was clogged.

So, ?

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Does it cool better while going down the road? My initial hunch is that it's either overcharged, or there's not enough airflow through the condenser.

70 is way too high for the low side, which is why it doesn't cool very well.

bucket said:

Does it cool better while going down the road? My initial hunch is that it's either overcharged, or there's not enough airflow through the condenser.

70 is way too high for the low side, which is why it doesn't cool very well.

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Yeah, but it has always since I have owned it blown colder while moving. I wonder if there is some restriction in the lines but really don't know. We just did an evac and recharge and the machine will only let you program a fixed amount. So, topping off after that would need to be with a can.

Bleeding off is manual as well unless you run through another evac, vacuum, and charge cycle.

Goldie Driver said:

LOL- whatever OE for 1980 was.

I keep reading that parallel flow is the way to go but no idea how you would pick a replacement part number.

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Most replacement condensers are parallel flow type now, since it's almost impossible to find r12. It should look more like a radiator with small fins than the OE one with a larger tube appearance. GPD 3612C is listed for an 80 an says it's a parallel flow. All the available options on rock auto right now say parallel flow, with the exception of an out of stock UAC part which doesn't really say. Picture looks like a parallel one but it says tube an fin in the description.

If you put a R12 style condenser in with 134 it definitely won't cool as well. 134 doesn't get as cold as 12 anyway an the larger tube's in the 12 condenser don't help it shed heat as well.

I agree the pressures are a bit high side. General rule of thumb is low side should be half ambient temp an high side double ambient plus 50. So at 95* ambient you should have been 50 and 240 on your pressures.

Goldie Driver said:

Yeah, but it has always since I have owned it blown colder while moving. I wonder if there is some restriction in the lines but really don't know. We just did an evac and recharge and the machine will only let you program a fixed amount. So, topping off after that would need to be with a can.

Bleeding off is manual as well unless you run through another evac, vacuum, and charge cycle.

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My 1980 K25 pickup has the original everything in it including the compressor, condenser, and evaporator and it is ice cold almost all the time. I do have the low speed on the electric fans set to come on when the compressor is engaged though. The only things I changed when I converted to R134 is the pressure switch and the orifice tube. I went to a blue tube and I get about the pressures that @bluex stated. Mines a pickup, so probably less total charge than yours but it took exactly three 12oz cans of R134.. which is 2.25lbs.

williestreet said:

When I bought this truck it had a bit of a stinkbug stance. Over the winter it got new rear leaf springs which didn't help the situation.
Tonight I finished putting some longer shackles to help reduce the gap in the rear wheel wells and level the truck out.
The shackles on the truck were 3-1/2 inches which I question if they were the correct length. The new shackles are 6-5/8" centre to centre.
This resulted in a 1-1/4" drop at the wheel wells and 1-7/8" drop at the trailer hitch.
Not a huge difference in measurement but that little change really looks better to me.
I have a set of the heavier 454 front coils sitting on the shelf that I need to get on at some point. I figure it will be pretty level at that point.
Before and after pics.

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If you toggle between the pictures fast enough it looks like the truck is twerking. Lol