Odd delay going into gear

Have a TH350 transmission. Recently changed transmission oil pan, gasket. Also changed out the kickdown cable as it was leaking where it went into the case. Here's the problem - when cold, going into reverse or drive from park it won't immediately go into gear, then when I tap the throttle there's a clunk and it starts driving fine. Restarting warm it doesn't have this problem. There an immediate obvious answer to this?

dkraven said:

Have a TH350 transmission. Recently changed transmission oil pan, gasket. Also changed out the kickdown cable as it was leaking where it went into the case. Here's the problem - when cold, going into reverse or drive from park it won't immediately go into gear, then when I tap the throttle there's a clunk and it starts driving fine. Restarting warm it doesn't have this problem. There an immediate obvious answer to this?

Click to expand...

Check fluid level on a level grade at operating temp. Let us know...

Sounds low to me also

Filter?

dkraven said:

Have a TH350 transmission. Recently changed transmission oil pan, gasket. Also changed out the kickdown cable as it was leaking where it went into the case. Here's the problem - when cold, going into reverse or drive from park it won't immediately go into gear, then when I tap the throttle there's a clunk and it starts driving fine. Restarting warm it doesn't have this problem. There an immediate obvious answer to this?

Click to expand...

Did it do this before you worked on it?

Not sure when @dkraven is going to log back on but will post my diag recommended sequence for anyone else with the same problem who happens upon this thread (note - may not be 100% exhaustive):

1. Check fluid level on a level grade when engine/trans are at operating temp - if fluid is low, top it off then attempt a test drive when engine/trans have had a chance to cool.
> If condition resolves--> you're done
> If condition persists, go to step 2

2. Check Modulator system
> Check vacuum at the modulator; 12-13 Hg is recommended minimum to properly work the transmission, assuming it's not been modified for full manual control
> If vacuum signal is acceptable, test modulator itself for defects
> If modulator is found to be in working order, use pencil magnet to remove modulator valve - check for dragging, stuck valve (if valve is sticking or resistant to smooth extraction, polish valve bore with bench buddy abrasive hone until condition resolves
> If Modulator system is found in good working order in all respects, check governor

3. Governor
> pull governor and check for valve movement
> Invert governor, actuate weights and watch the valve - if it moves freely, and gear is in good shape, no other obvious physical defects, reinstall governor

* Steps 2 and 3 can be performed in any order

4. If no issues are found in #2 or #3, drop pan and look for signs of burnt clutch material, debris or metal at the bottom
> If any matter beyond just a thin film of gray material is noted, put pan back on with a few bolts and yank transmission for overhaul
> Make sure you are not using a cloth-style filter as they clog --> install screen style filter
> If nothing concerning is found and filter is not clogged and/or cloth style filter, check valve body

5. Valve body
> remove valve body from transmission
> Inspect manual valve as well as all other valve trains via a thin flat blade screw driver - make sure all valves move freely and return to rest position once screwdriver is removed
> If defects are noted (dragging / stuck /seized valves), overhaul valve body, polish bores were problems were noted and reinstall - test drive
> If condition persists and nothing done in steps 1-5 resolves condition, go to step 6

6. Rebuild Transmission
> forward drum / clutch issue
> low roller OWC issue

^As stated above, fluid level should be the first check. Every T350 and 700R4 that I've ever been around that does this was just low on fluid.