I used this method to smooth out my suspension. I did this procedure before and after changing out my rear springs. Added a 4 degree shim to get a better drive shaft angle. Cup of water was smooth at speed.
OK, so you don't have to drill anything out, you just need a BFH and extend the shaft the 3/4" more you need. I couldn't do it by hand and had to bang it and guide it on to the steering lug. It's on!
By the way, don't be banging the old shaft to get it out. I may have damaged my steering wheel locking mech. I wound up sawzalling the old one out. EDIT: did not damage the locking mech. Still would not bang to get the old one off. Sawzall made quick painless work of it.
Just like everyone has been saying. I honestly thought this one was different. It's not. It's 3/4 inch short. Thinking of what square deal said and drill out the coupling and redrill a new hole.
All this back and forth on what fits was really confusing. Melting parts and drilling holes also did not sound right. I'm going this way. I'll be back with results.
The shop put a new master cylinder and booster. Now the brake pedal does not come all the way back up. Sometimes the brake lights stay on. It's not the switch, I don't think the booster rod is allowing the brake pedal to return. Is there an adjustment for that?