Okay, along with my other post, I think I understand what you and @EvilGenius are saying. I must have misinterpreted the colored ClassicCarWiring.com diagram that says “Oil PSI SW (6 cyl w/o gauges-see pic) as meaning it was only specific to 6 cylinders (thus this separate post asking what to do...
Okay, along with my other post, I think I understand what you and @EvilGenius are saying. I must have misinterpreted the colored ClassicCarWiring.com diagram that says “Oil PSI SW (6 cyl w/o gauges-see pic) as meaning it was only specific to 6 cylinders (thus this separate post asking what to do...
Okay, I understand your explanation and is the way I understood it in my head, thanks. The Haynes manual (see photo) shows the DK Blue wire (from switch) connected to the LT Blue wire (from choke) at the switch and from the switch, the DK Blue wire connected to the Tan wire that goes to the...
I also posted another question/scenario that may comply with your response. This post is specific to the blue (schematic dashed) 931 wire that goes to a “Oil Psi switch (6 cyl w/o gauges)” as shown in the pic of the schematic. I may have already satisfied this requirement as explained in my...
‘83 K5/350/4wd question: Please confirm my wiring/splicing is correct per the Haynes manual schematic. Tan wire from dash oil/choke indicator through firewall to new factory style oil psi sender (at distributor) spliced into dark blue wire to the oil psi switch and spliced with Lt blue wire to...
‘83 K5/crate 350/4wd: I am redoing some damaged wiring. The electrical schematic I have shows a blue (dashed) wire from the firewall block to an oil psi switch (6 cyl w/o gauges). I’m not entirely sure if this wire was connected to anything before I pulled the factory 305 to install my new crate...
Hi guys and girls! I just finished restoring and priming the gas tank and skid plate/rock guard. I would like to get some ideas on what type of coating or overlay to apply in an effort to better withstand flying rock damage and corrosion i.e. rubberized coatings, adhesive protectants, thick...
A catalytic converter is not required thus my reasoning to remove that heat shield. What do you mean by “up to 300 HP”? My engine is a 385HP SBC350. Is a single 2-1/2” or 3” exhaust not enough flow or do I really need dual exhaust to get enough flow?
Thank y’all for the input. I may very well try to find one in a junkyard since I’ve exhausted all other resources. However, I did find aftermarket heat shields that attach to the mufflers as another possible option. Let me ask you another question, since I am considering installing true straight...
Mine was a factory 305, but I installed a new GM crate 350. Just thought I would see if anybody had another heat shield so I could run dual exhaust. Thanks for the reply!
1983 Blazer: I am in need of a factory muffler heat shield for the right side for dual exhaust. I’m assuming that my Blazer originally didn’t come with dual exhaust and is the reason it didn’t have a heat shield for the right side. I’ve been looking online but can’t find one. I’ve checked AMD...