- Joined
- Oct 27, 2016
- Posts
- 3,348
- Reaction score
- 9,657
- Location
- MO
- First Name
- Spencer
- Truck Year
- 1971, 1̶9̶7̶4, 1976, 1979,1̶9̶8̶5, 2002
- Truck Model
- Dart Swinger, Sierra 10, C10 Cheyenne, C10 Big Ten, Silverado 10, Ram 2500
- Engine Size
- 225/6, 350 c.i., 350 c.i., 5.9l Cummins
So after my 76 got rear ended in my driveway and I picked up a front clip for my 79 in the last few miles home it started ticking like crazy, spent 9 hours fiddling with the rockers and preload as they were not adjusted correctly, got it all buttoned up, took for a drive at operating temp, went WOT, all was good. Today I drove up to the coin op car wash to wash the truck and the front clip I picked up, on the way back The ticking came back. It wasn't like when it first began, but still apparent. I have had the truck for over 2 years and it has always had a light ticking at idle, like a PCV rattling (not the PCV causing this). When I was setting the valve preload it looked to me that the intake on #8 pushrod sat lower than the rest of the other push rods that were on the base circle. To me that says a dished lifter and flat lobe. Pushrod itself was not bent or damaged. I will put an indicator on it to verify lift against other intake lobes. I know there is that possibility that the major cause of the ticking could be a cracked flex plate too, but I am pretty certain the cam has some flattened lobes too.
With the backstory out of the way, onto the meat and potatoes. My 76 has A/C and it is charged, so how much of a pain in the ass is it to swap the cam with the engine still in the truck and condenser still connected. The actual process of swapping the cam/lifters itself I am not worried about as I did all of that on my 79 350 and it fired right up the first time and break-in went good.
Since I will be pulling the intake I think I will put an aluminum intake on it and will be keeping the Q-Jet. I was looking at the Eddy 2101. Anyone have any experience with them and anything I should know/need for using it with a TH350, Q-Jet w/factory air cleaner and hot air type choke, big A/C compressor?
Plan on using a Comp 2100 timing chain as I did in my 79 and with a Comp lock plate. In my 79 I used a Summit K-1102 hydraulic flat tappet cam and have no opposition to it but am open to suggestions for other cams. Truck is equipped with 3.07 gears, 235/75/15's, TH350, stock manifolds and Y-pipe, and stock converter. Not building a race truck, just something for a solid daily driver with good mid range power and off idle, don't care about (or really want) a lopey idle and don't want to put a stall converter in.
I plan on pulling the oil pan to do the timing cover and then also to re gasket the oil pan, check the bottom end out, and put a new rear main seal in it as either the rear pan gasket is leaking or the rear main is leaking. Also take that as an opportunity to clean the front of the engine up and paint it and also paint the oil pan.
Thanks for any input and suggestions.
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With the backstory out of the way, onto the meat and potatoes. My 76 has A/C and it is charged, so how much of a pain in the ass is it to swap the cam with the engine still in the truck and condenser still connected. The actual process of swapping the cam/lifters itself I am not worried about as I did all of that on my 79 350 and it fired right up the first time and break-in went good.
Since I will be pulling the intake I think I will put an aluminum intake on it and will be keeping the Q-Jet. I was looking at the Eddy 2101. Anyone have any experience with them and anything I should know/need for using it with a TH350, Q-Jet w/factory air cleaner and hot air type choke, big A/C compressor?
Plan on using a Comp 2100 timing chain as I did in my 79 and with a Comp lock plate. In my 79 I used a Summit K-1102 hydraulic flat tappet cam and have no opposition to it but am open to suggestions for other cams. Truck is equipped with 3.07 gears, 235/75/15's, TH350, stock manifolds and Y-pipe, and stock converter. Not building a race truck, just something for a solid daily driver with good mid range power and off idle, don't care about (or really want) a lopey idle and don't want to put a stall converter in.
I plan on pulling the oil pan to do the timing cover and then also to re gasket the oil pan, check the bottom end out, and put a new rear main seal in it as either the rear pan gasket is leaking or the rear main is leaking. Also take that as an opportunity to clean the front of the engine up and paint it and also paint the oil pan.
Thanks for any input and suggestions.
