How to change clutch pedal bushings

[Stroked]

The clutch in my '84 K10 was rattling so bad you couldn't talk to the other person riding with you or hear the radio. That and it flopped back and forth like a dying fish. So, I decided to dive in and fix the darn thing.

This only applies to the linkage style clutches, not the later hydraulic type. Although there may be some similarities.

First: Remove the gauge bezel.

Next disconnect the speedometer cable from the back of the gauge cluster by lifting up on the retaining tang and pulling the cable straight out.

Now remove the gauge cluster. Depending on year and options, there will be different things to unplug from the back of your cluster. Mine had the main plug and one warning light bulb that had its own wire.

You should end up with this.

Unhook the clutch pedal return spring.

 

[Stroked]

Now it's time to remove the clutch pedal pivot bolt. This is the bolt that the clutch pedal AND the brake pedal pivot on. When you remove it, they will both drop down a bit. There is a nut on the other side of the steering column brace, but I couldn't get a good picture of it. It's fairly obvious though.

With a little luck and some maneuvering, you should be able to get the clutch pedal wiggled out and down on the floor. I had to unhook the rod from the z-bar that runs down from the clutch pedal to get the pedal to drop down far enough(Sorry, forgot to take a pic).

 

[Stroked]

This is the top of the clutch pedal where the pivot bolt goes through. Pull the sleeve and what's left of the bushings out of it.

Here's mine. As you can see, the bushings were toast and one had worked it's way to the middle of the sleeve.

Now grab that nifty package of bushings that you got from the HELP! section at your local auto parts store. Don't mind the dog, he's always photo-bombing my pictures...

Mine came with 3 different sizes for different applications I suppose. I used the middle size, which is the one on the far right.

Before installing your new bushings, check that the sleeve isn't worn too much. You can see where this one was rubbing, but it's still good.

The bushings go on the sleeve like this when it's installed in the pedal.

Remove one of bushings from your test fit and install the sleeve in the pedal. Then push the remaining bushing in from the other side. It should look like this.

Now you just have to put it all back together the reverse of how it came apart.

Make sure to tighten the pivot bolt enough that the pedal isn't flopping around. There should just be a little side to side play. You don't want to tighten it up too much though and cause the bushings to prematurely wear.

Now sit back and relax with your beverage of choice and congratulate yourself on a job well done!

 

[bucket]

Nice job!!

 

[MrMarty51]

The only thing I will add though is,I always liberally lubricate them bushings with a premium assembly lube,such as 105 Lubriplate or CRC moly Graphite lube.
That is a danged nice write up You did right there too.

 

[Stroked]

Nice job!!

Thanks! I'm not used to taking pictures while I'm working on something, so I had to put things back together/take them back apart to take pics a couple times. And I just pain forgot to take a couple pics.

The only thing I will add though is,I always liberally lubricate them bushings with a premium assembly lube,such as 105 Lubriplate or CRC moly Graphite lube.
That is a danged nice write up You did right there too.

Dang, I didn't even think of that. Luckily most of that is still torn apart for my speaker install so I should be able it get back in there fairly easy to lube them.

 

[HotRodPC]

Good Job !!! Thread moved to Manual Transmission & Clutch and Stickied.

Anyone else do this job and have other pic angles, or doing a Hydro Clutch, feel free to add more pics with your own tips and/or showing the difference in the Z bar manual linkage clutch and the Hydro clutch with the rod going to the Clutch Master Cylinder. I'd imagine about the only difference would disconnect the Master Cyl rod instead of linkage rod.

 

[Stroked]

Thanks! I guess I forgot to add that I had the a/c tube that runs to the drivers side vent out too. I'm not sure it's necessary, but it sure made it a lot easier.

 

[HotRodPC]

Thanks! I guess I forgot to add that I had the a/c tube that runs to the drivers side vent out too. I'm not sure it's necessary, but it sure made it a lot easier.

Yes, removing that tube makes many underdash repairs much easier. Anyone else wondering, he's talking About the AC Vent crossover tube for the far left driver side AC vent near the headlight switch.

 

[MrMarty51]

Yes, removing that tube makes many underdash repairs much easier. Anyone else wondering, he's talking About the AC Vent crossover tube for the far left driver side AC vent near the headlight switch.

I do`nt quite remember but,I think it is easily removed by taking out one screw,then wiggling it a bit and it then comes right out.
I do`nt remember quite where the screw is located but it seems I did`nt cuss-n-swear too much when removing it or else I would have remembered the process.

 

[Stroked]

I do`nt quite remember but,I think it is easily removed by taking out one screw,then wiggling it a bit and it then comes right out.
I do`nt remember quite where the screw is located but it seems I did`nt cuss-n-swear too much when removing it or else I would have remembered the process.

Hmm...mine didn't have a screw holding it in. The previous owner must have taken it out and forgot to put it back.

 

[bucket]

The screw for the vent tube is removed when you are removing the metal trim panel directly under the steering column.

 

[Stroked]

The screw for the vent tube is removed when you are removing the metal trim panel directly under the steering column.

Ahh. Mine doesn't have that piece. I had to swipe one off one of my parts pickups, but haven't got a chance to install it yet.


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[89Suburban]

Excellent job Stroked, thanks. Reps given.

 

[HotRodPC]

excellent job stroked, thanks. Reps given.

toe !!!