Power Windows Troubleshooting Info

[89Suburban]

Well I think its a ground problem.... Not sure were the wires go under the dash though. Gonna need a schematic....

I used a test light hooked to the positive terminal battery, and touched all the window wires and none lit up. There is a large diameter red and black wire, the red is power(using test light to known ground), I`m assuming the black is the ground that is the problem cause it doesn`t light up...

The switch reverses the positive wire and the ground wire to the motor. If I understand correctly you have the wire disconnected from the drivers side motor. Take the ground lead of the test light and hook it to a good ground. With the switch in the up position you should have 12V on one wire in the motor wire connector. Switch your test light to the other wire in the connector and put the switch in the down position and you should have 12v on that wire. Put both of your test light leads in the connector (one on each wire) of the power window motor and move the switch and see if it lights up. Reverse the test light wires and try the switch in the other position. If the test lights up in both tests then you have a bad or binding motor. If the test light does not light up then more than likely the master switch is bad or there is a ground wire problem. If the driver side switch is bad or there is a ground problem it will stop all of your windows from working. Since you can control all the windows from the drives side all the ground connections go thru that switch. Good luck.

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schematic as asked for... hope this helps!

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Original thread location:

http://www.gmsquarebody.com/forum/showthread.php?p=96265&highlight=window+power#post96265

 

[HotRodPC]

Original thread location that gets much more into detail.

http://www.gmsquarebody.com/forum/showthread.php?p=96265&highlight=window+power#post96265

 

[HotRodPC]

I wanted to add a part for repairing your power window connectors. If A wire has pulled loose from your connector to the switch, you can repair it with this part by Pico Wiring.

Part # is 5846. From what I gather, the last letter just designates the quantity in the package. They come in 5, 50 and 500 qty, and no matter how many you purchase, it's a little over $1 per connector. Still much cheaper than buying a whole pigtail connector to replace 1 or 2 ends. Part # for 5 packs is 5846c and 5846pt. Part # for 50 pack is 5846g.

Simply open you connector housing, Crimp the end onto your wire, set in place as shown, close and latch your connector... Good as New !!!

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[89Suburban]

Sweet.

 

[chengny]

See those small white nylon rollers at the ends of the arms - they'll be falling off. Since they are so loose they no longer guide the window straight up and down. Consequently the glass gets crooked and jams into the channelruns.

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Autozone sells a repair kit for this. I've never tried it so can't say if it would work. It consists of a new set of rolllers and some jumbo sized pop-rivets.


As for the power lock issue - for starters;

Make sure there is a circuit breaker in the #24 slot of the fuse block (and that it isn't permanantly open).

Both the power windows and door circuits are protected by circuit breakers rather than fuses. The breaker plugs right into the fuse block just as a fuse does.

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Check for broken wires especially where the harness transits from the cab body into the door (on either side of the rubber conduit) and also within the door shells.

The power locks are controlled by a relay that the harness plugs into. It's mounted up near the convenience center. Make sure it is there and the harness connections are firmly in place.

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Power windows and locks schematic:

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[HotRodPC]

Hey Jerry, do you have a diagram for the fuse block on an 85 or shouldn't it be the same as this? My power windows aren't working on the 85 K1500. There is a 30amp fuse in the spot of the breaker now and it is good, but still no power windows. I did clean the grounds up at the ground terminals on the driver kick panel. And still no windows.

I noticed in this diagram, for the plugs, there is 3 different spots that have wires that plug into the top of the block. Notice 2nd Row, marked WDO. I have nothing plugged in there and got all excited thinking I just need to find the plug to plug it in. then I seen the same thing marked on the far right of the block.

So I looked at an 86 Truck that the windows and locks work fine, and it does not have anything plugged in on the 2nd row. So obviously, those locations where they plug in for the 30 amp breaker are different, or are both locations breakered?

And would it make a difference if I have a fuse in there instead of a breaker???

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[chengny]

Here is the fuse block layout for 1985 CK trucks (and probably for all 81-87).

I made an attempt to indicate the current flow for the power windows. I hope it isn't too confusing.

Bottom line - If you are using the slot directly above the choke fuse for your PW circuit breaker, the plug in connector for the PW feed needs to go where indicated (and as labeled WDO on the front of the fuse block):

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[HotRodPC]

Ohhhh Dat's a nice one in the full size image.

 

[HotRodPC]

Here is the fuse block layout for 1985 CK trucks (and probably for all 81-87).

I made an attempt to indicate the current flow for the power windows. I hope it isn't too confusing.

Bottom line - If you are using the slot directly above the choke fuse for your PW circuit breaker, the plug in connector for the PW feed needs to go where indicated (and as labeled WDO on the front of the fuse block):

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See, I don't have anything plugged in to the PWO Stab In spot. On either the 85 or 86, but the PW do work on the 86. But this will gimme some info to follow. I'll see if I can dig out my wiring book for 86, if it matches 85, then I'll know what color wire should be plugged in there and can look around for it. It's got to be that simple. Grounds are good, Fuse is good, Harnesses are good, switches are new and I find it hard to believe both motors at the same time would go bad and not even buzz. The lights or nothing even dim when you hit the switches as if they are doing nothing at all.

 

[HotRodPC]

FUGGIN A BUDDY !!! I"m Gonna Blow UP Every Thread I can with this. I've been right all along, BUT, like an idiot, after I RE WIRED the new switches in, I didn't check the fuse. It was blown. Put another fuse in, and it blew. Took the 30amp Circuit Breaker out of the other truck, BAMM !!! I have power windows. It was obvious they hadn't gone up or down in years. They screached and creeked, whined and moaned, but after 4 of 5 times up and down that went away. Still a bit slow, but I bet with some lube, they'll work just fine.


Soooo, now let's Conny's working right !!!

 

[HotRodPC]

Bump for some copied posts here. We'd like to keep all the PW discussion here in this Sticky.

 

[89Suburban]

Posted on my iPod 4th Gen using PUNCTUATION.

 

[89Suburban]

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[HotRodPC]

Mine are still working in the 85 K1500 since I got them fixed. Now if I can ever get a PS pump and tires. I drove it to the scrap yesterday a couple days ago, forgetting about the heat and the tires. I'm sure the right front is ready to let go now. I ended up getting off the freeway and took surface streets.

 

[JayBird]

Hey hot rod... did you mean you took the 30 amp connector out of the other truck and put it in the PWO fuse slot or what?

Im having pwo issues

Yesterday i wired my switch and pressed the button and my interior lights dimmed telling me my switch works ... after a while of testing this i heard a pop inside the door frame and now the lights wont dim anymore when the switch is pressed

The fuse looks ok to me.