Electric choke unplugged - 86 C10 Silverado

[Sk8almost44]

Hello everyone. So since I bought the truck, it's been a hard starter. Popped the hood and noticed the choke is not plugged in. What wire would connect to it, I have many disconnected wires throughout the engine bay. Thank you for your assistance.

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[Sk8almost44]

I apologize, I should have taken more photos of the carb. If anyone needs more photos just let me know.

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[87scotty]

It just needs a key on power
Source

 

[Sk8almost44]

12v or less? I'm testing wires near the choke and one is reading .4 volts at most.

 

[87scotty]

12v for sure

 

[Georgeb]

Idealy that is fed through the oil pressure switch located behind the intake next to the distributer. I see the choke is held open with a zip tie so there is going to be more to this than plugging it in.

 

[Jrgunn5150]

There's also a pink/red wire out of the alternator that is key on 12v hot.

 

[Sk8almost44]

Hello, I'm following up. Sorry it took so long, I just now worked on it..

Plugged it in, fired ride up! Next week I'll truely know if it's fixed, because if I drive it less than 72 hours it starts up..

Thank you!

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[Sk8almost44]

Hello, so I noticed a lot of open plugs and vacuums and plugged them all up. At the same time I snipped the zip cable off the choke and connected it.

The idle is very low. So low, it dies at every stop light. Any suggestions?

I can post pics of everything I plugged up and connected, or just make a video.

 

[Georgeb]

Check your ignition timing and then set the idle speed with the screw on the drivers side of the carb that has the spring on it.

 

[Sk8almost44]

Check your ignition timing and then set the idle speed with the screw on the drivers side of the carb that has the spring on it.

I will try that out.

Cutting the zip tie from the choke and plugging it up to a 12v did not solve the hard start issue. And when I do get it started, the idle is very high! And once I change gears from N to D, the RPMs are very high. Then I turn it off after a 10 min drive, the RPMs are back to being so low, it dies at stop lights.

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[Sk8almost44]

Hey everyone, I'm finally following up with the fix.

Found a loose blue wire (with a broken plastic fitter at the end) that comes from the engine oil pressure switch. I also adjusted my idle a little so it wouldn't die at every stop light.

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I found my solution from the thread below (I should have searched better):

http://www.gmsquarebody.com/threads/electric-choke-disconnected.9749/

Seems to be running VERY smooth, but now I have that wire I had hooked up to the choke BEFORE; hanging from a boot coming out of the front of the carb. It has two wires connected to it. I'm trying to find out where the left wire plugs into (my finger)?

The volts are very low 5 or less). The volts seem to lower the longer the truck is on?

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[Honky Kong jr]

@1987 GMC Jimmy

 

[1987 GMC Jimmy]

That’s the connector for the dual capacity accelerator pump. It was only around for 1985, ‘86, and ‘87 if you count the M Code 350s. The pink and black is the ignition hot lead coming off the engine harness, and the other is for the accelerator pump temperature switch. Looking at your earlier pictures, I see the useless TVS vacuum tree, but it looks like where the switch would have gone, the male prong was either broken off, or the whole thing was replaced with a regular ole hardware store NPT plug. The switch is PN 14080627, which has been discontinued since 2008. The carb will work fine with the solenoid unplugged, but I’m sure there’s something out there that can make it work.

 

[Sk8almost44]

That’s the connector for the dual capacity accelerator pump. It was only around for 1985, ‘86, and ‘87 if you count the M Code 350s. The pink and black is the ignition hot lead coming off the engine harness, and the other is for the accelerator pump temperature switch. Looking at your earlier pictures, I see the useless TVS vacuum tree, but it looks like where the switch would have gone, the male prong was either broken off, or the whole thing was replaced with a regular ole hardware store NPT plug. The switch is PN 14080627, which has been discontinued since 2008. The carb will work fine with the solenoid unplugged, but I’m sure there’s something out there that can make it work.

Okay, I can try looking at a local junk yard for that temperature switch. Just replace it with that NPT plug, and plug that wire into the switch. Should I notice any difference?

That you for your help everyone! I will be making another post soon about all the vacuum lines, and see if i can get them all configured correctly.