Dougnsalem
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I've seen a bunch here so far. Custom door panels and center consoles. A mount to raise an aftermarket auto shifter off the floor. Tons of stuff.... What's your best one?
Personally, I hate dealing with fuseible links. So I got rid of them, and ran two 10 gauge wires from the starter, straight to the junction block. Then I got one of those big ass fuses (50 amp), and carefully soldered a couple eye terminals on it. Bolted it up and I was good to go. The truck has been this way for a couple years, and it has worked great. It did blow once, but luckily I had made a spare and tossed it in the glove box. I installed it after I got my short fixed. YMMV on the amperage you need, depending on what you have going on power consumption wise inside the rig....
Something else I did was add the switch to the right. Its just a 3 position non-momentary toggle. The center output of the switch goes to my HEI. One input to the switch comes from my ignition switch. The other input comes from the junction block(+12 volts all the time). With this, I can put it in the center position and no power at all goes to the HEI (Truck won't start, even using the key). Raise it up, and the truck starts, and shuts off, normally with the key. Flip the switch down, and it powers up my HEI, even if the key is off. This is great. If I'm under the hood and need to start it, I don't have to crawl in the truck to do it. Flip the switch to power up the HEI, and then I hit this other switch that goes to the starter solenoid....
Its just a spring loaded momentary switch to spin the starter. When I'm done, I flip the first switch to the center position, and it kills power to the distributor. It doesn't matter what position the ignition switch is in, since this overrides it. Works great for adjusting valves. Turn off the HEI, and bump the motor over with the switch by the alternator. Anyways, anyone have ideas to share?
Personally, I hate dealing with fuseible links. So I got rid of them, and ran two 10 gauge wires from the starter, straight to the junction block. Then I got one of those big ass fuses (50 amp), and carefully soldered a couple eye terminals on it. Bolted it up and I was good to go. The truck has been this way for a couple years, and it has worked great. It did blow once, but luckily I had made a spare and tossed it in the glove box. I installed it after I got my short fixed. YMMV on the amperage you need, depending on what you have going on power consumption wise inside the rig....
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Something else I did was add the switch to the right. Its just a 3 position non-momentary toggle. The center output of the switch goes to my HEI. One input to the switch comes from my ignition switch. The other input comes from the junction block(+12 volts all the time). With this, I can put it in the center position and no power at all goes to the HEI (Truck won't start, even using the key). Raise it up, and the truck starts, and shuts off, normally with the key. Flip the switch down, and it powers up my HEI, even if the key is off. This is great. If I'm under the hood and need to start it, I don't have to crawl in the truck to do it. Flip the switch to power up the HEI, and then I hit this other switch that goes to the starter solenoid....
You must be registered for see images attach
Its just a spring loaded momentary switch to spin the starter. When I'm done, I flip the first switch to the center position, and it kills power to the distributor. It doesn't matter what position the ignition switch is in, since this overrides it. Works great for adjusting valves. Turn off the HEI, and bump the motor over with the switch by the alternator. Anyways, anyone have ideas to share?
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