I'll take a quality all aluminum over plastic. Been using mine for 20+ years in several vehicles and it looks brand new. You must use an anode if you don't want it to dissolve.
Yes but, I doubt it will fix the bouncing gauge. The baffle is nothing more than a tub that is spot welded to the bottom of the tank. It's only about 8 x 8 inches square and maybe 2-3 inches tall. Just enough for the electric pump to sit inside of. I think the arm of the float is actually bent...
Just buy this tool and be done with the hassle of bleeding brakes and clutch systems. It can't be any easier or fool proof than this. Zero mess, never pump a pedal, one person task. Trust me, it's worth it's weight in gold!
I have an aftermarket radiator that's a few inches wider than stock. I also have an aftermarket condenser for my Vintage Air system. If you plan on converting to R134, you want the biggest condenser you can fit. You will have custom hoses either way so it really doesn't matter. Get the biggest...
This is all too familiar! I'm so glad mine is done. Make sure you take the time to create a schematic of every wire and device location as you go. It will be worth it's weight in gold down the road when something goes haywire.
Yep, not an issue. I think that corner of the fuse block is Ignition. You won't have a dome light with the key off. BTW, there are kits with the original plugs that snap in place for cheap and they are color coded and only fit the sockets they are intended for.